I have just purchased the Reverse Override kit, Work light Kit, and the Temp Sensor Kit from Quadovator and after reading this post I wanted to ensure I wouldn't create any issues by installing these.

First - the work light kit just adds the switch that Polaris left out to an existing circuit intended for this purpose. So I see NO issue with this kit.

Second - the temp gauge kit need a SMALL amount of power and pulls this from the cigarette lighter (accessory) power. Other than losing a negligible amount of power (milliamps) from this outlet - I see no other effect to the electrical system
Finally - the Reverse Override kit. The kit has you install the switch between the Gray/Orange wire and the Brown wire. The Brown wire goes to a junction of Brown wires that go to chassis ground - so this is a ground wire. The Gray/Orange wire runs between a Normally Open (N.O.) contact at the Reverse Override button on the handlebar and the Speedometer Assembly via Pin 3 of the Speedometer Assembly connector. So it appears to engage Reverse Override you need to bring the Gray/Orange wire to Ground.

To verify this is the way the circuit operates I disconnected the Speedometer and put a multimeter between Pin 3 of the connector (this is the third pin down located next to the connectors "key") and Ground. The meter reads open (infinite resistance). When the reverse override button is pushed - the meter reads 0 ohms. Putting a switch in closes the circuit the same as the factory installed switch does - just that the factory installed switch is a momentary switch whereas the Quadovator is not. I do not see how installing this kit changes the electrical characteristics of the circuit WHATSOEVER. Anybody else?

A little extra info: If you look at the Reverse Override switch you will see three poles. The "blade" where the Brown wire is connected to. A Normally Closed pole (N.C.) but no wires are connected to this pole, and a Normally Open pole (N.O.) which the Gray/Orange wire is connected to. When you push the Reverse Override button you are moving the blade to the N.O. pole thereby connecting the Brown wire to the Gray/Orange wire. This is what the Quadovator kit will do for you without having to hold the button in.

Does anybody else see how any of these kits would change the electrical characteristics of the circuits at all? I see NO way how any of these could affect the PDM.

With respect to the 3-headlight mod. I will have to look at that again when I have time. I remember looking at that and drawing a schematic a few months ago.

 

Here is the link to the 3 headlight mod thread:

http://forums.atvconnection.co...key=y&keyword1=wiring


I want to look at this a little further and will post when I gt a chance.

 

Okay, I'm not trying to get my post count up - but after I posted my wife wanted to know what I was posting so I told her in "laymans" terms. I wrote my fist post in this thread after thoroughly checking out the schematics so I worte all the gory details.

In laymans terms - this kit will add an additional switch in parallel with the existing momentary switch. Pushing the momentary switch or closing the Quadovator switch do the same thing electrically.

 

As i mentioned earlier when a dc relay de-energizes it produces a large voltage spike. If the kit does not have diode across the coil it could potentially damage the PDM if it is in the same circuit. Current flowing through a relay coil creates a magnetic field which collapses suddenly when the current is switched off. The sudden collapse of the magnetic field induces a brief high voltage across the relay coil which is very likely to damage transistors and ICs. The protection diode allows the induced voltage to drive a brief current through the coil (and diode) so the magnetic field dies away quickly rather than instantly. This prevents the induced voltage becoming high enough to cause damage to transistors and ICs

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: *5 J's*

I have just purchased the Reverse Override kit, Work light Kit, and the Temp Sensor Kit from Quadovator and after reading this post I wanted to ensure I wouldn't create any issues by installing these.



First - the work light kit just adds the switch that Polaris left out to an existing circuit intended for this purpose. So I see NO issue with this kit.



Second - the temp gauge kit need a SMALL amount of power and pulls this from the cigarette lighter (accessory) power. Other than losing a negligible amount of power (milliamps) from this outlet - I see no other effect to the electrical system

Finally - the Reverse Override kit. The kit has you install the switch between the Gray/Orange wire and the Brown wire. The Brown wire goes to a junction of Brown wires that go to chassis ground - so this is a ground wire. The Gray/Orange wire runs between a Normally Open (N.O.) contact at the Reverse Override button on the handlebar and the Speedometer Assembly via Pin 3 of the Speedometer Assembly connector. So it appears to engage Reverse Override you need to bring the Gray/Orange wire to Ground.



To verify this is the way the circuit operates I disconnected the Speedometer and put a multimeter between Pin 3 of the connector (this is the third pin down located next to the connectors "key") and Ground. The meter reads open (infinite resistance). When the reverse override button is pushed - the meter reads 0 ohms. Putting a switch in closes the circuit the same as the factory installed switch does - just that the factory installed switch is a momentary switch whereas the Quadovator is not. I do not see how installing this kit changes the electrical characteristics of the circuit WHATSOEVER. Anybody else?



A little extra info: If you look at the Reverse Override switch you will see three poles. The "blade" where the Brown wire is connected to. A Normally Closed pole (N.C.) but no wires are connected to this pole, and a Normally Open pole (N.O.) which the Gray/Orange wire is connected to. When you push the Reverse Override button you are moving the blade to the N.O. pole thereby connecting the Brown wire to the Gray/Orange wire. This is what the Quadovator kit will do for you without having to hold the button in.



Does anybody else see how any of these kits would change the electrical characteristics of the circuits at all? I see NO way how any of these could affect the PDM.



With respect to the 3-headlight mod. I will have to look at that again when I have time. I remember looking at that and drawing a schematic a few months ago.</end quote></div>


Thx man for a great reply.

Anyone got a commen about if the 3 headlight mod can kill the PDM (ie something inside it)? I have heard that due to the high electrical consumtion (sorry for my bad english, but I hope u all get my point) the PDM can fail/break/burn.

//Rob

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: G.A.S.

I am not sure on all the components of the quadovator kit but if there is not a diode parallel to the relay coil going to the ECU there will be a large voltage spike when the relay drops out due to counter emf wich could damage the ECU.</end quote></div>

I'm unsure of what you're saying. I done a "homade" 3 headlight mod using a 12 volt relay rather that using the diode between the high and low beam wires. Are you saying my relay could cause probs due to voltage spikes?
http://forums.atvconnection.co....cfm/ID/1/K/20810.cfm

The link is to a diagram I found here, posted by one of our members...xcrider. This is the method I used,is it ok?

 

G.A.S. - I understand that as a coil discharges you create voltage in the opposite direction of the voltage that created the field. This is why a diode is put in reversed biased in many DC circuits with a coil. The diode provide a short for the collapsing field preventing this induced current from affecting the rest of the circuit.

However, these Quadovator mods are not adding any coils. With no coils - no field to collapse - no induced voltage. Now with respect to the three headlight mod that uses a coil - this could be an issue pending where the 12V is taken from. Definately would be good circuit design to place a reversed biased diode across the coil to prevent issues.

 

Installed the Reverse Override kit, Worklight kit, and the Temp Gauge today. Ran out of time and didn't get the temp guage sending unit installed.

As I installed all these at the same time I tied all the Browns (ground) wires together from the worklight (for the LED), the Reverse Override, and the Temp gauge and pig-tailed them to Brown wire on the the cigarette lighter (accessory). The other wires I wired per the directions that came with the kits.

Everything is working fine, though I won't be able to see the temperature until I install the sending unit.