changeing the primary spring
Feb 5, 2001 | 12:02 PM
#2
Pro Rider
Joined: Aug 2000
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No special tools needed. Just get the belt cover off (this may require unbolting the bottom of the fender from the footrest or possible removing the footrest itself - simple to do, just a lot of screws). Now get a marker and make a reference line from the pulley cover to the main body of the pulley. You want to put it back the way it came off to keep everything balanced. Remove the 6 bolts around the outside of the pulley cover and the one in the center. Nothing is going to jump out at you. Now remove the pulley cover, and the spring will be right there. Replace the spring, and put everything back and you are ready to ride.
Feb 5, 2001 | 05:02 PM
#4
Trailblazer
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 75
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Silverado, I had to replace my seal. The factory installed it improperly and it was damaged. The one I got from the Polaris dealer was made out of a spungy type material and the original was a harder rubber. I liked the replacement design much better anyway. Have fun. You gonna like it 
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Feb 5, 2001 | 05:58 PM
#5
Pro Rider
Joined: Apr 2000
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A couple of points. Remove the bolts going through the floorboards into the footpeg/frame member. Do not bother disconnecting the floorboards from the fenders. Once the floorboard is disconnected from the frame the whole assembly will swing away allowing you to get the clutch cover off. Remember when you are reinstalling the clutch that the center bolt is into steel and has a high torque rate, the outer bolts are into aluminum and are easy to strip.
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Feb 6, 2001 | 10:48 AM
#9
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First, thanks, Fourlix, I never thought about leaving the floorboard attatched to the fenders, I bet it would work!
Now: Changing the primary spring changes the engine RPM at any given transmission setting. A stiffer (white or green) spring will allow the engine to rev higher at any given gear ratio. This would be like revving the engine higher before letting out the clutch on a manual shift machine. By revving higher before the clutch grabs, you have more 'grunt' to do things like spin oversized tires in sticky mud, better initial acceleration, and also makes wheelies easier to do I think it even helps improve belt life as it helps eliminate power stall in sticky goo. The only trade off is that since it takes off with more authority, delicate slow-speed maneuvers take more finnesse to do. Personally, after about a week with the white spring, I felt I could control it as good as I ever could. Just takes a while to get used to the new 'feel' of it.
The gasket can be re-used indefinately as long as it isn't cut, torn, cracked, or lost it's flexability.
Torque specs of the pulley bolts are: 12 ft lbs on the outer colts and 40 ft. lbs on the center bolt. Sorry I left that out the first post.
Now: Changing the primary spring changes the engine RPM at any given transmission setting. A stiffer (white or green) spring will allow the engine to rev higher at any given gear ratio. This would be like revving the engine higher before letting out the clutch on a manual shift machine. By revving higher before the clutch grabs, you have more 'grunt' to do things like spin oversized tires in sticky mud, better initial acceleration, and also makes wheelies easier to do
I think it even helps improve belt life as it helps eliminate power stall in sticky goo. The only trade off is that since it takes off with more authority, delicate slow-speed maneuvers take more finnesse to do. Personally, after about a week with the white spring, I felt I could control it as good as I ever could. Just takes a while to get used to the new 'feel' of it.The gasket can be re-used indefinately as long as it isn't cut, torn, cracked, or lost it's flexability.
Torque specs of the pulley bolts are: 12 ft lbs on the outer colts and 40 ft. lbs on the center bolt. Sorry I left that out the first post.