Going to start a new thread since the old one was getting long....I have some new questions about my 2000 250 blazer.

1.Oil pump removal, do i leave the shaft in the engine and block it off or does the shaft need to come out too??

2. I need to put new crank bearings in....do i leave the oil pump gear on the crank or can it come off and be discarded?

3. The mag side crank bearing was trashed. there were pieces of laying in the case and the counterwieghts were hitting it....is there a upgrade here or just replace them with the same NTN's ?

4. ive not got my manual yet but i read in other threads about shims on the bearings for end play. The olny shims on the crank our on the rod journals , nothing on the crank bearings.

5. What is the thread and pitch on the flywheel nut for the crank....it was crossthreaded on and im hoping the crank can be saved.

 

1. i blocked the pump on my motor by just removing the shaft and putting the oil pump back on to cover the hole.
2. i did not reinstall the oil pump drive gear on the crank
3. i went to fastenal and bought some 6062 bearings at ~$5 each. they come sealed but the seals are easily removed plus there is grease in them so initial startup after reassembly they are not dry.
4. there is usually shims on the clutch side of the crank inbetween the bearings and the counter balance on the crank. generaly can just reinstall those same shims and get away with it.
5. have no idea but probably some special thread knowing polaris.

 

hmmmm...my clutch side bearing staying in the case when i pulled it apart....there were no shims in it at all.

 

take an outside mic or caliper and see what the measurements are. im leaving for work but tonight ill look in my book to see what the specs are.

 

to measure the bearing?

Thanks....hopefully my book shows up soon.

 

well i cant find my book but what you should do is get new bearings and measure the width of them. then you want to add the width of all 3 up. now measure the width of the old bearings. should be within -+.002. on the pto side of the crank, the bearing closest to the counter balance, it has a chamfered corner on it. if you have a buddy with a lathe its no problem to cut that corner. if you dont have access to a lathe, (this is what i did) you can use a die grinder and cut that corner yourself. the weld is a little thicker on the pto side so it requires some extra clearance on the bearings. if its not there then the crank wont spin freely when you tighten the case halves together

 

Ordered my parts from Rick Ritter yesterday....nice guy and very easy to deal with.

 

My manual showed up as did all my parts minus piston. I talked to my local Polaris dealer and they want around 90.00 for the crank bearings. Its got NTS's in it now and someone has cut a chamfer in one to clear the crank. My local bearing store wants 12 each for the NTS's

For those of you that know, my vent hose from the tank just dangles. On my carb, there is a small "T" that has one end open and looks as if the vent hose could go there...any ideas??