Could be the mud I guess.
Better start washing it after r done mudding then.
Only got in the mud a few times myself and always wash the machine after....maybe why I have never had any problems.

Art

 

new machine.....no hard riding.....cleaned after every ride.....and brakes are shot after only 300 miles? Sounds like faulty equipment in my opinion
polaris should make this right.

 

also if you bought this from a realiable dealer they should step up and help you out on this one

 

Yea guys... I'm really not sure how disc brakes are set up on ATV's. With that little amount of pad to start with, you wouldn't want them tight to the rotors, as they would wear out in not time simply from riding. On the other hand, to much gap will cause the issue I described.

I though I remember someone mentioning a lot of "brake clatter" when riding... that's what made me think of the "gap" possibility.

Of course, the steel in the rotors might be falling short of spec in some cases... and fine in others. Disc brakes are great... when everything is up to spec, and set up correctly. When anything falls short... the opposite is true.

Whatever the case, I agree... Polaris should have a look into some this stuff rather than writing it off as "rider abuse". Again, a good dealer would go to bat for the owner in a case like this.

 

I coming from a honda Foreman and I dont know too much on how A polaris is set up.. on the honda when you let off the gas you roll "naturally" With polaris Im unsure if the ADC runs all the time or only when u slide the control to 4x4 adc? My reason for bringing this up is I feel that my polaris slows down unusually fast after letting off the throttle. Maybe the gap was set too tight on the rotors ? It may be normal but this is my first Polaris so I just rode with it. Talked to the dealer again, they agree it shouldn't have done what it has done and will have their manager call polaris and see if they will extend the warranty to the brakes. They said "if not then you will have to bite the bullet." also I did hit average mud hole but nothing enough to get stuck in [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] and it was pressure washed every weekend after the Saturday ride. I find out tomorrow and let u know .

 

The brakes are set up pretty much just like on an auto. The clatter you mention Dave comes from how the pad is held in the caliper...there is enough play allow it to jump around in the caliper,not play between the rotor and pad from what I can tell.
As far as the gap..the pad basically just touches the rotor..just like on a car..as the pad wears the caliper piston protrudes farther and farther to keep the pad close/riding on the rotor to reduce brake lever travel during braking. As long as everyting is working properly no pressure is applied to the pads once you release the brake lever and the piston just rests..if the rotor is warped or some other form of forces is applied to the piston it can be pushed in to reduce drag on the pad.
A common problem is sticking pistons and caliper mounting slides..if these stick the clamping force will not dissipate adequately once the brake lever is released..this will cause premature brake pad wear...

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Daledo

I coming from a honda Foreman and I dont know too much on how A polaris is set up.. on the honda when you let off the gas you roll "naturally" With polaris Im unsure if the ADC runs all the time or only when u slide the control to 4x4 adc? My reason for bringing this up is I feel that my polaris slows down unusually fast after letting off the throttle. Maybe the gap was set too tight on the rotors ? It may be normal but this is my first Polaris so I just rode with it. Talked to the dealer again, they agree it shouldn't have done what it has done and will have their manager call polaris and see if they will extend the warranty to the brakes. They said "if not then you will have to bite the bullet." also I did hit average mud hole but nothing enough to get stuck in [img][/img] and it was pressure washed every weekend after the Saturday ride. I find out tomorrow and let u know .</end quote></div>

Daledo,

Hope it works out for you with the dealer.

BTW, the engine braking is probably what is slowing you down so fast on the Polaris. I hardly ever use the brakes on mine.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: HIGHOCTANE

The brakes are set up pretty much just like on an auto. The clatter you mention Dave comes from how the pad is held in the caliper...there is enough play allow it to jump around in the caliper,not play between the rotor and pad from what I can tell.

As far as the gap..the pad basically just touches the rotor..just like on a car..as the pad wears the caliper piston protrudes farther and farther to keep the pad close/riding on the rotor to reduce brake lever travel during braking. As long as everyting is working properly no pressure is applied to the pads once you release the brake lever and the piston just rests..if the rotor is warped or some other form of forces is applied to the piston it can be pushed in to reduce drag on the pad.

A common problem is sticking pistons and caliper mounting slides..if these stick the clamping force will not dissipate adequately once the brake lever is released..this will cause premature brake pad wear...</end quote></div>

Thought so HO... thanks for the clarification.

Maybe his rotors were just too soft?

 

By my 2008 800 manual the adc only works below 15 mph.
adc works as a engine brake....so as I take it does not work on the caliper system.
Did you check you back pads?
I was also wondering if they use a proporition valve in that 850 machine?
You buy a machine you need to buy a polaris repair manual for r model and year as it seems there changing things every year it seems.
Still waiting for mine from polaris dealer.
You may have a bad master cylinder as both front brakes are worn out.
To much brake fluid could also cause more drag on the pads....rotor.
I drag race and see alot of pad wear on lightweight drilled rotors.
I run the stock soild rotor with no holes and I have 10 years on them and they still look good.
Am not a fan of holes in the rotor as it lets dirt in and really acts like taking a grinding stone to the rotor......imo.
Anywho you need to check out the complete braking system to see whats causing the problem.
Just replacing parts then in another 300 miles u doing it again.
Proper break in also helps alot.
Like driveing up to 30 mph and lightly apply brakes to a stop and do this like 10 to 15 times.
I bought ceramic pads for my van 2 years ago and boy what a difference. Braking is alot better than stock ones.
Rotor still looks like new and very little break dust which is great for keeping r wheels fron looking like crap.
Wonder if polaris or aftermarket makes different pads?




Art

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Art454

By my 2008 800 manual the adc only works below 15 mph.

adc works as a engine brake....so as I take it does not work on the caliper system.

<u>ADC is in the front differential and simulates all wheel engine braking by applying electrically activated braking to the front end.. but Polaris does have full time real rear wheel engine braking as well</u>

Did you check you back pads?

I was also wondering if they use a proporition valve in that 850 machine?

<u>No...as far as I can tell all wheels receive equal braking..
</u>
You buy a machine you need to buy a polaris repair manual for r model and year as it seems there changing things every year it seems.
<u>Yep the 850 is a different animal...I must say the Polaris service manual for it is a bit weak though...doesn't even have belt wear limits listed! Says to compare old belt to new belt? lol</u>

Still waiting for mine from polaris dealer.

You may have a bad master cylinder as both front brakes are worn out.

To much brake fluid could also cause more drag on the pads....rotor.

I drag race and see alot of pad wear on lightweight drilled rotors.
<u>Yep..so do I and I was going to bring this up..not only is it a drilled rotor is is also pretty narrow,ie narrow pad width but with a larger diameter than other ATVs and has large holes compared to its size IMO...drilled rotors work well for stopping and help heat related brake fade... but there is down side..they are kind of like cheese graters..they will wear pads faster than a solid rotor...
Heck drag racing is easy on brakes talk to the road race guys...lol..
Even so I ride mine HARD..more like a sport quad that a utility sometimes..wide open..hard on the brakes...wide open...hard on the brakes..and so on..
Matter of fact I recently rode like that for 30 miles straight riding with dirt bikes..
My pads have alot of life left.
</u>
I run the stock soild rotor with no holes and I have 10 years on them and they still look good.

Am not a fan of holes in the rotor as it lets dirt in and really acts like taking a grinding stone to the rotor......imo.

Anywho you need to check out the complete braking system to see whats causing the problem.

Just replacing parts then in another 300 miles u doing it again.

Proper break in also helps alot.

Like driveing up to 30 mph and lightly apply brakes to a stop and do this like 10 to 15 times.

I bought ceramic pads for my van 2 years ago and boy what a difference. Braking is alot better than stock ones.

Rotor still looks like new and very little break dust which is great for keeping r wheels fron looking like crap.

Wonder if polaris or aftermarket makes different pads?









Art</end quote></div>


I chimed in with some stuff above , it's unlerlined.

To the original poster...can you get pics of the worn parts? I'd like to see what they found.
Also make sure they check for hanging calipers...

Thanks