850 Spark Plug..think I found something other than Champion..
#1
The good news..the new 850 plug,Champion REA8MCL, appears to cross to
NGK-LZKAR7A, Denso XE20HR-U9 and Bosch VR8SEW(athough IMO the Bosch wouldn't be much better)..
The bad news is that these appear to be European applications that aren't sold in the states,at least I have yet to find a stateside source..I haven't spent a ton of time looking but maybe someone more resourceful can track them down and find a good source?
NGK-LZKAR7A, Denso XE20HR-U9 and Bosch VR8SEW(athough IMO the Bosch wouldn't be much better)..
The bad news is that these appear to be European applications that aren't sold in the states,at least I have yet to find a stateside source..I haven't spent a ton of time looking but maybe someone more resourceful can track them down and find a good source?
#2
How bout an "Irid" in that NGK? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Go to this site, and put just that NGK plug number in the search. It returned plug "ILZKAR7A10" in NGK Iridium.
Club Plug
EDIT: Now, the question is... do they really have them, LOL and, is it the same plug?
Go to this site, and put just that NGK plug number in the search. It returned plug "ILZKAR7A10" in NGK Iridium.
Club Plug
EDIT: Now, the question is... do they really have them, LOL and, is it the same plug?
#3
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: DCT
How bout an "Irid" in that NGK? [IMG][/IMG]
Go to this site, and put just that NGK plug number in the search. It returned plug "ILZKAR7A10" in NGK Iridium.
Club Plug</end quote></div>
Good find! I actually prefer the iridium..I e-mailed NGK and ask them that exact question..along with a few others...
I just ordered some from RockAuto..so we'll see if they work I guess..if I ever get them..lol..
Looks like it is the OEM plug for a Mercedes AMG so they should have them..and it should be the same,the 10 at the end is a plug gap spec AFAIK..I can gap irid plugs though...
How bout an "Irid" in that NGK? [IMG][/IMG]
Go to this site, and put just that NGK plug number in the search. It returned plug "ILZKAR7A10" in NGK Iridium.
Club Plug</end quote></div>
Good find! I actually prefer the iridium..I e-mailed NGK and ask them that exact question..along with a few others...
I just ordered some from RockAuto..so we'll see if they work I guess..if I ever get them..lol..
Looks like it is the OEM plug for a Mercedes AMG so they should have them..and it should be the same,the 10 at the end is a plug gap spec AFAIK..I can gap irid plugs though...
#7
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: DCT
HO,
What do you mean "without gapping down on an iridium plug"? I always gap my Irids just like regular plugs? Are you suggesting not to?</end quote></div>
Well it depends on how you gap a "regular" plug..gapping down isn't as critical as opening the gap. I said gapping down because the OEM spec is .035 and that plug is .040..the iridums have always seemesd to allow a little more gap IMO. But as for gapping iridums..Alot of people use the center electrode to pry open the the gap on a plug..they stick the gapper in and if it is too tight they pry it open..that is a BAD way to do it on any plug...especially on an iridum plug.. again you really should not do that on a copper plug,or any plug for that matter but you really don't want to pry on an iridium center electrode..
For one it is normally very fine also it is very hard and somewhat more bittle..it can be cracked more easily than copper...it can crack and the crack might be invisible to the naked eye. Also it can crack down in the insulator so the crack is again not visible or easily apparent...either can result in less than optimal performance or worse yet a foreign object being injested in the cylinder..sometmes it can result in the ceramic insulator cracking and being injested with no sign of the center electrode failing..again this is not good..the ceramic electrode is much harder than the cyclinder or the clinder wall..
When gapping any plug you should only apply force to the grounding strap..but this is more critical on an iridium plug than any other..
HO,
What do you mean "without gapping down on an iridium plug"? I always gap my Irids just like regular plugs? Are you suggesting not to?</end quote></div>
Well it depends on how you gap a "regular" plug..gapping down isn't as critical as opening the gap. I said gapping down because the OEM spec is .035 and that plug is .040..the iridums have always seemesd to allow a little more gap IMO. But as for gapping iridums..Alot of people use the center electrode to pry open the the gap on a plug..they stick the gapper in and if it is too tight they pry it open..that is a BAD way to do it on any plug...especially on an iridum plug.. again you really should not do that on a copper plug,or any plug for that matter but you really don't want to pry on an iridium center electrode..
For one it is normally very fine also it is very hard and somewhat more bittle..it can be cracked more easily than copper...it can crack and the crack might be invisible to the naked eye. Also it can crack down in the insulator so the crack is again not visible or easily apparent...either can result in less than optimal performance or worse yet a foreign object being injested in the cylinder..sometmes it can result in the ceramic insulator cracking and being injested with no sign of the center electrode failing..again this is not good..the ceramic electrode is much harder than the cyclinder or the clinder wall..
When gapping any plug you should only apply force to the grounding strap..but this is more critical on an iridium plug than any other..
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#9
Good information HO.
I'm very careful not to even touch the Irid electrode when I gap. Still, on the next one, If the gap is even fairly close, I might try it just to see how it works right out of the box.
I'm very careful not to even touch the Irid electrode when I gap. Still, on the next one, If the gap is even fairly close, I might try it just to see how it works right out of the box.


