Well i installed my white spring i bought from chopperbill going to test it out later on tommorrow.but i did run it down the street and i really couldnt tell much diff.im sure there is but i just couldt feel a big diff in the short distance i tested.I also bought a 160 main jet for it also since it was still lean after i put the 155 in it.going to do that also.

 

Has anyone else used the white spring on an HO?

 

Sorry I can't help you with the HO but I would like to know what a white spring would do for a none HO. Anybody done this?

 

took it for a spin and i can tell i gets more (bite)now and seems to take off quicker, now all i need is get my buddy that has another HO and race hin now huh? going to do a pug check shotrley may have to go with the 160 main jet.I think the spring would do great on your non hO.

 

I have a green spring on my HO'd '96 SP500 and just ordered a white one for my sister's 335 to do a little testing of my own. I've seen in here where some fellas have talked about the white one on a 335, but haven't seen any results yet...stay tuned.

 

how do you like the white spring? they are almost identical on the chart.

 

I know the 157.5 jet works great here in Minnesota on the HO in zero temps. 61.5 MPH on the GPS

 

I can't stand it any longer; the white spring is on order. I will let you know how it pans out.
Studying the clutch setup in the Polaris manuals I decided the 2 options I had were to change the weights to 10MB. These are a little lighter than stock and should allow the engine to rev a little easier (lower gearing) therefore increasing the mid to upper range power. The other option was the white spring, which should accomplish similar results except initial engagement, will also be at higher rpm. The spring is $30 and the weights are $30 X 3 so I took the cheapest route. I have never worked on PVT before so I would appreciate any comments on my prognosis?

 

It looks like the engagement will be a little lower with the white spring vs. the green. Also, by going to lighter flyweights, your engine will not make more mid-range power, or allow it to rev easier, but will be required to turn more rpm's when it's in low-range before it shifts out to high range. It will also allow more rpm's to be turned on the top end.

Now, if you have done engine modifications that would affect the power curve, great. Otherwise all you have done is raised the engine rpm's. If that's what you want, fine, but it does not do anything else but turn more rpm's.

In general, clutching modifications are done to take advantage of changes that have been made in the power curve of the engine. If you do engine mods, the power curve gets altered, so to take advantage of that, you change the clutching to match the new power curve which is generally somewhat higher. You want to be in the area the engine makes the most hp all the time. If you are not making more hp, quite possibly you could actually "hurt" performance (measured by the clock) when accelerating. Clutching in itself does absolutely nothing to affect the hp of the engine. These 500 4-strokes have quite a drop off in power at higher rpm's, particularly above 7,000+. Just take a look at their power curve on virtually any dyno testingthat's ever been done on them. It drops off the planet real quick, the more you rev it out. To stay in the meat of the power you will want your engine rpm to be controlled and not go past it or under it.

jackschultz@adelphia.net
www.godigital-design.com/schultzmotorsports

 

Traildog the spring is very simple. However Make sure you torque the bolts to the right specks. Also using a hammer put through the flywheel and wedged on the floorboards makes life much easier. The torque for my 2000 SC400 was 40 ft lbs for the center bolt and 12 ft lbs for the six smaller bolts. These settings are probably the same for your machine but you should check to make sure. Snapping one could turn a 15-20 minute job into a couple of hours.

Good luck