the best thing for these stuck joints like mentioned above is to get some penetrating oil in there and let it set for a while and a snap on it some times while prying it it comes right out. these stupid clips on the end of the spines are a pain and there not designed to just be stright pull out. it really needs to be snapped and yes i know there isnt much room or distance to give a good pull.

 

Well hopefully I don't run into this problem next weekend otherwise I will be posting up similar questions. Sounds like it is a luck of the draw type deal it could go easily or it could be a bitch. Anti-seize is must any more tips are very helpful before I dive into this project. Thanks.

 

Well I did let my soak overnight and tried again the next day,after many sprays with the lube........still never did come out with the pry-bars.....I also don't see any way of attaching a slide-hammer on there...We use them at work all the time for pullys and gears on the motor shafts.....Work great if you can attach them ....Caper.......

 

My advice is to consider that stub axle (the part thats left after removing the inner boot and pulling the inner joint apart) a lost cause. Dill a hole in the thing and tap the hole to attach the slide hammer. Or weld a nut onto it. Weld a piece of rebar across the opening - anything to get a good point to attach to, as you can see, that's a big part of the problem, how to get a grab on it.

Good luck, that can be a stubborn beast.

 

If anyone uses a slid hammer in the future- post some pictures for the rest of us. If Polaris made a tool to remove these stubs- back as far as the mid 90's, they would have sold a pile of them. just my view. I tried for several days to remove mine - 96 Sportsman, never did get it to release.
rust

 

My is a 2006 .......it should not even be that rusted.........Caper.........

 

Lots of penetrating oil and pry the joint in a wiggle to let the fluid down the splines. Its dry mud in the spline ring stopping the clip from colapsing into the groove. Have had good luck with heat but only if replacing seals. On real bad ones I have pulled shaft and cage from inside of joint and put the slide hammer 2 inch circle end inside and clamped vise grips(3) on lip but was replacing joint anyway.Once one is out you can drive the other out from backside but not if it has TURF mode as there are seals in middle . Once out clean well and lots of antisieze on reasembly. Patience is a must the lube takes hours to creep into the mud.

 

Well we tore into the rear of my Polaris Sportsman 500 this weekend and it went pretty smooth. My advice would be to unbolt the shock from the a-arm and tie it up out of the way. Then unbolt the sway-bar and tie the top a-arm out of the way. I did all of this, so that I could line up the outer cv with the inner cv. This gives you more room to get a better pull to disconnect it from the rear end as well as a straight line pull instead of an angled one. Everyone probably was already doing this, but I just wanted to make it clear that this made the job go smoothly. Once the half-shafts were removed I notice that the grease or anti-seize used inside the rear end upon assembly of the bike was all, but gone or dried up. It was rather rusty and I ended up taking a wire brush and lightly cleaning it out before applying anti-seize. Well that was removal and this coming weekend I will reassemble it just waiting on boots from the CV Man. Hope this helps for future references.