I threaded a third hook onto the middle of the long strap of the ratchet strap. I strap the middle hook to the tow loop on the front of the xp. I take the two end hooks and hook them to either side of the trailer so the strap makes a v. I do the same to the back placing the middle hook on the receiver loop. Both sides of the strap are tensioned evenly and I am able to compress the suspension as well. I have used this method for a few thousand miles and zero problems.

 

That is a good idea...you can't unevenly tighten the strap side to side with that method....since the 3rd hook slides on the strap.

 

It may not apply to your situation, but when I use a trailer it's because I am bringing two machines or more.

I use 2" wide ratchet straps. I load them sideways, set the brake and in park, and one strap on each end. One front, one back. This way the machines set better and I can see the straps from my mirrors.

If you want to get set up real good, get E-track on the bed of the trailer and use short ratchet straps over the tire.

 

Thanks HO. I recently bought some 1000lb straps that have a spring and wind up the extra slack. I havent used them enough to know how well they will hold up. They are nice because they hold tension on the strap while you are hooking them up. You also dont have to tie the end of the strap to keep it from flapping in the wind.

 

Great pointers guys, I didn't get to Ride yesterday but I will try the different methods mentioned for my next ride. Honestly I didn't even see the front hook under the machine! The plow mount blocks the view! I was going crazy trying to find a tie down point for the front (I picked the machine up with the plow installed). That alone will make a world of a difference and explains why I was having trouble. I was reading the manual and then came on the forum and now see where the front tow hook is located.

Thanks again!

 

I forgot to add in the earlier posts. I took a short piece of chain with a shackle on each end to use as an anchor point. The loop anchor on the front of the xp is a pain to get to with a g2 xp mount plate. I will put a shackle over each end of the g2 xp mount plate ears where the pushtube clips to. The chain is so short that I have to get it just right for the second shackle to go over the end of the ear. I will then hook the ratchet strap to the middle link in the chain. I have not used it yet, but I dont see why it wont work.

 

Kind of back to what I was saying earlier...strapping an ATV down is SUPPOSED to be for security in event of an accident IMO. I can load mine on a trailer and set the brakes and drive all over the country without losing the machine. 1000 lb straps are only going to keep the machine from moving around a little,peace of mind if you will...

If you want to keep the machine in place during even a mild accident you need AT LEAST 2 5k straps. I use 4 3k straps...and even with 4 3k straps I wouldn't be suprised at them failing during an accident...
Bottomline...the straps aren't the keep the machine in the exact spot on the trailer that you put it in when you load...don't get wrapped up in that...most any strap will keep the machine on the trailer,even if you don't strap it down "right". Now if you want to prevent liability/damage during an accident then alot more thought and preperation is needed.

JMO

 

This @ $20 (- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices) is by far the best way to to keep your ATV in place. If you tie off to any thing above the shocks you will run the risk of the straps comming lose because as the ATV bounces the straps go lose ,tight, lose, tight and will come unhooked or losen up. If you strap the wheel to the trailer bed you will have no worries. As mentioned using E track will give you a place to hook the strap.
I mostly use only 1 strap, but for the long haul or the rough road I will put one in the front and one in the back.
As for the cost why trust your $8000 toy to a $4 strap $20 or $40 bucks is cheap insurance.