I don't believe the Hawkeye cage is the same as the JD cage. I pulled it apart today, which would have been pie if it wasn't for the stupid steering stem bracket at the top that forced me to pull the front plastic off. The cage looks fine, no cracks or damage, some of the black stuff is scrtached off the armature plate, but mainly it was filthy inside. I just changed the diff fluid yesterday and the new fluid looked just like the old fluid. Like it came out of a 100,000 mile Ford pickup diff. Looked like thick chocolate milk. I think I'm gonna try to clean it up and see if it works just to see if that was the problem. I don't understand how it got so filthy cause the seals look fine. I'll update as soon as I get it back together. Wish me luck.

Thanks,

George

 

On my 08 400HO - same diff - running with the tracks keeps the awd engaged all the time and after running 4 mo in awd, the fluid was like that.

 

Did the dirty fluid keep the awd from engaging? I'm hoping that was the main problem with mine. I don't mind buying new parts once but I'd rather change the fluid every few months rather than $200 worth of parts. I know I'm going to be in mud pretty often so if the parts are that weak it's gonna be a problem.

Thanks,

George

 

It made the engagement intermittent, clunked and jerked. Now I change it every 3 mo 50 hrs. No problems since.

 

Thats kinda like the issues I am having. One wheel might spin and the other wouldn't do anything or they would turn but you could stop them with your hand. Sometimes neither would spin. I haven't had any clunking or jerking though, it never made a noise.

Thanks,

George

 

I have the older twin hub Hilliary system,not the single front diff,but I had one wheel acting up and not disengaging from awd, I changed the on demand awd fluid which was filthy and the awd was back to normal,so dirty fluid does matter in its operation.

The awd fluid is so easy and quick to change that I do it twice a season now instead of once now.

 

I worked on a hawkey with simular problems, I took the 12 volt plug into the diff apart, had 12 volts going in but not out, put dielectric grease on connections, problem solved.

 

Cleaned the inside of the diff, put it back together and it's doing the same thing it was before. The rollers were pitted and the bearings were a little rough. I also had fluid dripping really slowly fron the drive seal. Unless Kerbbirds recomendation works I'm gonna try to find the lowest price I can on a new diff. Any suggestions on a place to save some cash on the new diff would be greatly appreciated. I found one for $509 plus shipping but if I can find one cheaper that would be great.

Kerbbirds did you mean the connector or the part you have to take the diff apart to get to?

Thanks guys,

George

 

i have the exact oppisite proablem mine wont go to awd would changinf the fliuds help that

 

The connector at the diff,
John deer parts # are
RollerKit-MIA 10666
Cage kit- MIA 10667
Seal kit MIA 10654 cage kits and $12.35 for the sealsLook on bike badit or babbitts and see if the hawk has the same parts as a 6 or 700