Winching backwards
#21
Was thinking the exact same thing Moose.........Not seein' it. Would need to see a live example to feel confident I could make it work.
#22
Well I see this idea is a going in the wrong direction (train wreck) all I can say is my approach WORKS its saves money,effective,FUN TO DO. Yea I would not go that route with extra pulleys and straps so what is wrong with what I did running the rope under the ATV maybe a two or three foot pull? Some of the military vehicles have this set up like mine sort of like mine
#23
Pretty nifty as it would seem neat to try. But like you point out with all the rope out with chains and tow straps what could be the true distance but a few feet. But if TRUE nice to know these riddles could be solved.
On your pulley setup, I like that but like the other posters it does hang low and looks like you couldn't have it on with the plow, or serious trail riding as it could be obstructive. I would like to see a fab'd fair lead roller put in the same place as your disc pulley which would set in more flatter. But you get an "A" for innovative, I think you give us lots of ideas!
Great thread BTW!
R'
On your pulley setup, I like that but like the other posters it does hang low and looks like you couldn't have it on with the plow, or serious trail riding as it could be obstructive. I would like to see a fab'd fair lead roller put in the same place as your disc pulley which would set in more flatter. But you get an "A" for innovative, I think you give us lots of ideas!
Great thread BTW!
R'
#24
[QUOTE=RticKwad;2901445]Pretty nifty as it would seem neat to try. But like you point out with all the rope out with chains and tow straps what could be the true distance but a few feet. But if TRUE nice to know these riddles could be solved.
On your pulley setup, I like that but like the other posters it does hang low and looks like you couldn't have it on with the plow, or serious trail riding as it could be obstructive. I would like to see a fab'd fair lead roller put in the same place as your disc pulley which would set in more flatter. But you get an "A" for innovative, I think you give us lots of ideas!
Great thread BTW!
R'[/QUOT
I missed it under the last pic at first too...It says he keeps it in his toolbox for when he needs it..It doesn't always stay on...
John
On your pulley setup, I like that but like the other posters it does hang low and looks like you couldn't have it on with the plow, or serious trail riding as it could be obstructive. I would like to see a fab'd fair lead roller put in the same place as your disc pulley which would set in more flatter. But you get an "A" for innovative, I think you give us lots of ideas!
Great thread BTW!
R'[/QUOT
I missed it under the last pic at first too...It says he keeps it in his toolbox for when he needs it..It doesn't always stay on...
John
#25
I know it's hard to understand, it's almost like looking at one of those trick questions. But the way it's shown can work, odds are you will never have to do it. Not to mention the amount of rope, ****** blocks, and time to rig it up would take way to long to do. BUT in theory it will work.
Yes you are pulling line in on the drum from the front, that line pulling in is from the end of the winch line which is in the back right? Now if the pulling force front the front is lets say "x", and take away the added ****** blocks in the rear, then the rear pulling force is now equal to "x". But how the little pic shows the forward pulling force is "x" and the rear with 2 ****** blocks added to the rear of vehicle gives the rear pulling force 4 times the amount of "x". So when you winch in the line being put on the winch drum your reeling in line that came from all that extra pulling force in the back.
if the calculated forces are figured then your winch will not stall or burn up, if it starts to stall then put another ****** block in the rear to have the pull 6X the front.
I know I'm horrible at explaining things but I understand this since I've seen it before, so if you have any questions, I'll try to make it a little clearer
Yes you are pulling line in on the drum from the front, that line pulling in is from the end of the winch line which is in the back right? Now if the pulling force front the front is lets say "x", and take away the added ****** blocks in the rear, then the rear pulling force is now equal to "x". But how the little pic shows the forward pulling force is "x" and the rear with 2 ****** blocks added to the rear of vehicle gives the rear pulling force 4 times the amount of "x". So when you winch in the line being put on the winch drum your reeling in line that came from all that extra pulling force in the back.
if the calculated forces are figured then your winch will not stall or burn up, if it starts to stall then put another ****** block in the rear to have the pull 6X the front.
I know I'm horrible at explaining things but I understand this since I've seen it before, so if you have any questions, I'll try to make it a little clearer
#26
The drawing you are looking at is not mine but its a no brainer to me as the rope is draw into the spool of the winch the whole line is getting shorter! This drawing is from a guy that pulled a 4500# vehicle backwards not an ATV. Now if you are referring to a video of my pulley and atv this I can do!!! .Winch backwards with a front-mounted winch
#27
#28
Okay, I got it. If you were to have one length of wire going out the front to a tree, let's say ten feet, and another single line to the rear going out ten feet to a tree, there would be no gain when you pulled in. The distances would be the same and you wouldn't go anywhere. The difference is that the pulley setup in the rear is pulling in 4 times the amount of cable per pull than the front. So, for each 5 feet being spooled in by the winch the setup in the rear is pulling in 20 feet of cable. It will work but I believe it will still mess up the winch over time.
#29
#30