Starter Removal
Feb 28, 2001 | 09:31 AM
#3
Thread Starter
|
'5 minutes worth of planning equals 30 minutes of execution'
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,722
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From: Texas
The two bolts on the bottom are close to impossible to reach. What do you use to reach these bolts? This thing is really wedged in there tightly.
Feb 28, 2001 | 11:28 AM
#4
Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
I'm not sure I follow you. On my bike you have to wedge the foot brake down with a screwdriver to get to one of the bolts. But I have a sportsman and it may be different. I have taken my pull start cover off so many times that I have made the hole to get to one of the bolts really big so it ain't all that difficult for me.
Feb 28, 2001 | 12:27 PM
#5
Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
I posted this some time ago. Hope it helps.
---------------------------------
For those who are interested in saving a few bucks with removing their own starter when it gives problems . . . here is the process I used last night. My dealer was going to charge me $120 (3hrs @ $40) + $70 parts to fix the starter. I will be taking mine to a local alternator/starter repair shop who will charge me $75 to repair the starter.
I would first like to thank everyone who gave me their two cents worth. I have brought all the info together and added some of my own experience to come up with a process that should be quite attainable for the everyday backyard mechanic.
Starter Removal (actual)
1) Securely raise the quad off the floor. I run mine up on 4 car ramps.
2) Remove seat and plastic side panels
3) Remove floorboard to get access to the recoil housing
4) Disconnect battery ground cable
5) Remove pipe. There is only three springs and one bolt and it gives you so much more room to play with. If you can get the Master Link out of the middle chain (I have a 96) do it, it will allow you to easily complete Step 6 - but it is not necessary
6) Remove recoil housing. I found mine a little stuck so I had to tap it with a rubber mallet. It is still stubborn, remove the airbox and tap it from behind with a stick.
7) Remove the two starter bolts. I could not totally remove my recoil housing, but I shifted it to the right allowing me to gain access to the starter bolts. Note: I discovered later that I could have removed both middle sprockets & chain to get easier access.
8) Remove rock guard from the bottom of the quad
9) Remove starter cable.
10) Use 10mm wrench (long handle would make it easier) to remove the two short bolts attaching the starter support bracket to the engine
11) The starter should then slide out of the recoil housing through the bottom of the frame.
Starter Installation (theory)
1) Loosely assemble support bracket to starter. Bracket bolts must be loose as to allow installation of support brackets to engine bolts.
2) Install new gasket (Part 3085283 Ref #18 Grid #D11) and place the starter in place
3) Steps 11-1 above.
---------------------------------
For those who are interested in saving a few bucks with removing their own starter when it gives problems . . . here is the process I used last night. My dealer was going to charge me $120 (3hrs @ $40) + $70 parts to fix the starter. I will be taking mine to a local alternator/starter repair shop who will charge me $75 to repair the starter.
I would first like to thank everyone who gave me their two cents worth. I have brought all the info together and added some of my own experience to come up with a process that should be quite attainable for the everyday backyard mechanic.
Starter Removal (actual)
1) Securely raise the quad off the floor. I run mine up on 4 car ramps.
2) Remove seat and plastic side panels
3) Remove floorboard to get access to the recoil housing
4) Disconnect battery ground cable
5) Remove pipe. There is only three springs and one bolt and it gives you so much more room to play with. If you can get the Master Link out of the middle chain (I have a 96) do it, it will allow you to easily complete Step 6 - but it is not necessary
6) Remove recoil housing. I found mine a little stuck so I had to tap it with a rubber mallet. It is still stubborn, remove the airbox and tap it from behind with a stick.
7) Remove the two starter bolts. I could not totally remove my recoil housing, but I shifted it to the right allowing me to gain access to the starter bolts. Note: I discovered later that I could have removed both middle sprockets & chain to get easier access.
8) Remove rock guard from the bottom of the quad
9) Remove starter cable.
10) Use 10mm wrench (long handle would make it easier) to remove the two short bolts attaching the starter support bracket to the engine
11) The starter should then slide out of the recoil housing through the bottom of the frame.
Starter Installation (theory)
1) Loosely assemble support bracket to starter. Bracket bolts must be loose as to allow installation of support brackets to engine bolts.
2) Install new gasket (Part 3085283 Ref #18 Grid #D11) and place the starter in place
3) Steps 11-1 above.
Feb 28, 2001 | 06:53 PM
#6
Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Oh yeah, I forgot about the damn chain. I just take off the rear sproket (middle chain) and use a big screwdriver to get it back on. I am not sure that weedy has a mid chain, however. TrailBoss, 2wd, right? What was the question?
Mar 1, 2001 | 08:55 AM
#7
Thread Starter
|
'5 minutes worth of planning equals 30 minutes of execution'
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 0
From: Texas
2WD - the only thing keeping the starter in is the top bolt on the rear starter bracket. It is EXTREEMLY tight and almost impossible to get a wrench in there. I have an old wrench I have been bending to suit this need. Ran out of time last night but plan to complete tonight.
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Mar 1, 2001 | 10:09 AM
#8
Trailblazer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
weedy I had the same problem and it pissed me off so bad, what I did was cut the bracket and only use the front bolt mount this is plenty to hold it and it makes changing the starter in the future a lot quicker and easier.