Boost Engine Power - Sportsman 500 1998
#11
08-15-2010 | 02:06 PM
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Weekend Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
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Thank you all,
I renew the carburetor and the primery and secondly clutch by buying all the new components from polaris.
where i can find information on the clutch springs ? i have blue now,
so what i need to change ? the spring or make the weights lighter ?
in if i need to change the spring, should i change the spring in the primery and the secondery clutch ? or should i change only the primery ?
I renew the carburetor and the primery and secondly clutch by buying all the new components from polaris.
Check the buttons in the secondary clutch, they may be worn so its not back shifting right, also you could change the spring in the primary clutch to a white, that would make some diffwerence in engagement rpm, the next step would be a green spring but they seem to be too much without bigger tires ect.
so what i need to change ? the spring or make the weights lighter ?
in if i need to change the spring, should i change the spring in the primery and the secondery clutch ? or should i change only the primery ?
#12
08-15-2010 | 02:24 PM
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Weekend Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
i understand now, by reading this :
Thanks to Stogi from
If i would buy this item :
http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/...uct_Code=PATV7
and this : http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/..._Code=WE262203
it will do the work (more RPM).
And idont need to change the weights ?
Now you are opening a whole new can of worms....
With the primary springs you can fine tune your engagement and top RPM as you like.
First I'll list the primary springs and their load weights. (These are EPI springs, but Dalton follows the same principal)
COLOR
PURPLE 54.5kg 60kg 82.6kg
YELLOW 43.1kg 48kg 65.8kg
WHITE 34kg 42kg 70.37kg
ORANGE 34kg 40kg 63.5kg
RED 15.9kg 25kg 63.5kg
GOLD 11.3kg 21.3kg 61.2kg
BRITE GREEN 10kg 18kg 55kg
ALMOND 8.6kg 21.3kg 72.6kg
MAROON 0.5kg 15.9kg 77.6kg
PINK 0 kg 11kg 73kg
The first # is the load at 2.5" . This is how tall the spring is when installed and at rest (motor not running) The second # is the load at 2.25'' tall. The last # is load at 1.25"tall.
The first # also indicates the amount of stall the spring will have. The other 2 #'s indicates how fast they compress. You can use these 3 #'s to tune the engagement rpm and what the top rpm will be.
99% of us go with the pink or maroon or even just leave it stock . I know some guys that run the brite green and the gold also. It all depends on how you like you're clutch to react.
I personally like my clutch with no stall and to shift out hard under acceleration. I like to touch the throttle and it engage... not have to sit there and wait or have to gouge it to get it to move. I find because of my riding style a high stall spring with light weights will cause the belt to slip. Some people like the high stall. I personally find it annoying.
About weights....this is another tuning option you have. They work along with the primary and secondary spring to control the shiftout rate of the clutch as a whole. Though they are not cheap they can make all the difference when tuning. When choosing a set of weights you don't want to pick a set that will overpower the primary spring. What good does it do to put a high stall spring with a weight that over rides the stall? You want it to work along with the primary. The profile has allot to do with how the weight will react. The weight has a heel and a toe. If the weight has more meat ( thicker) at the heel than it'll have a stronger bottom end. If more of the weight is towards the toe the more topend it'll have. EPI weights are good for big tires and mud. They have a rounded heel and mid section. Because of this they will react like a heavier weight on the bottom and mid but fade after that. The stock weights are a fair middle of the road style. The have a flat spot in the midrange compared to the EPI. But, you can add weight to the tips of them and make them come on strong. I personally have never tried Dalton or the heelclicker weights so I can't speak on how they react but the physics are the same no matter the brand.
The MOST important thing for the clutch to work properly is for the belt to be with in spec , not hourglassed and for the deflection to be correct. A worn out belt and being out of adjustment will make even the best clutch set up slip and have poor performance.
This was written by STOGI
With the primary springs you can fine tune your engagement and top RPM as you like.
First I'll list the primary springs and their load weights. (These are EPI springs, but Dalton follows the same principal)
COLOR
PURPLE 54.5kg 60kg 82.6kg
YELLOW 43.1kg 48kg 65.8kg
WHITE 34kg 42kg 70.37kg
ORANGE 34kg 40kg 63.5kg
RED 15.9kg 25kg 63.5kg
GOLD 11.3kg 21.3kg 61.2kg
BRITE GREEN 10kg 18kg 55kg
ALMOND 8.6kg 21.3kg 72.6kg
MAROON 0.5kg 15.9kg 77.6kg
PINK 0 kg 11kg 73kg
The first # is the load at 2.5" . This is how tall the spring is when installed and at rest (motor not running) The second # is the load at 2.25'' tall. The last # is load at 1.25"tall.
The first # also indicates the amount of stall the spring will have. The other 2 #'s indicates how fast they compress. You can use these 3 #'s to tune the engagement rpm and what the top rpm will be.
99% of us go with the pink or maroon or even just leave it stock . I know some guys that run the brite green and the gold also. It all depends on how you like you're clutch to react.
I personally like my clutch with no stall and to shift out hard under acceleration. I like to touch the throttle and it engage... not have to sit there and wait or have to gouge it to get it to move. I find because of my riding style a high stall spring with light weights will cause the belt to slip. Some people like the high stall. I personally find it annoying.
About weights....this is another tuning option you have. They work along with the primary and secondary spring to control the shiftout rate of the clutch as a whole. Though they are not cheap they can make all the difference when tuning. When choosing a set of weights you don't want to pick a set that will overpower the primary spring. What good does it do to put a high stall spring with a weight that over rides the stall? You want it to work along with the primary. The profile has allot to do with how the weight will react. The weight has a heel and a toe. If the weight has more meat ( thicker) at the heel than it'll have a stronger bottom end. If more of the weight is towards the toe the more topend it'll have. EPI weights are good for big tires and mud. They have a rounded heel and mid section. Because of this they will react like a heavier weight on the bottom and mid but fade after that. The stock weights are a fair middle of the road style. The have a flat spot in the midrange compared to the EPI. But, you can add weight to the tips of them and make them come on strong. I personally have never tried Dalton or the heelclicker weights so I can't speak on how they react but the physics are the same no matter the brand.
The MOST important thing for the clutch to work properly is for the belt to be with in spec , not hourglassed and for the deflection to be correct. A worn out belt and being out of adjustment will make even the best clutch set up slip and have poor performance.
This was written by STOGI
If i would buy this item :
http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/...uct_Code=PATV7
and this : http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/..._Code=WE262203
it will do the work (more RPM).
And idont need to change the weights ?
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