Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

Clutch Tuning, Primery Clutch Spring

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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:05 AM
  #11  
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Hello all,

I was got the new spring, Orange rating of 75-200lbs, cost only 14$ on ebay.

my original 20-90lbs (blue).

and i only can say. wow !.

much more power and accelerating, huge differents on dune sand.

but, one problem, the start on low speeds is very difficult, because the high opening, (75lbs). on Climb rocks hills, you can see that is hard.

so to make it perfect, i need low opening and keep the high end (+/-200lbs),

so i found original polaris spring, Yellow part no: 7041102 rating of: 45-185lbs.

I hope it will be the best.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 08:16 AM
  #12  
ftwflh's Avatar
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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Originally Posted by Astro Power
Hello all,

I was got the new spring, Orange rating of 75-200lbs, cost only 14$ on ebay.

my original 20-90lbs (blue).

and i only can say. wow !.

much more power and accelerating, huge differents on dune sand.

but, one problem, the start on low speeds is very difficult, because the high opening, (75lbs). on Climb rocks hills, you can see that is hard.

so to make it perfect, i need low opening and keep the high end (+/-200lbs),

so i found original polaris spring, Yellow part no: 7041102 rating of: 45-185lbs.

I hope it will be the best.
What weights are you running?You can lower the engagement a little with heavier weights but if you go too much you will hurt top end.Plus with a top umber that high you may be putting your engine in danger or be getting out of you peak RPM range.After seeing you have a 500 you dont need to let the top end RPM get over 6700 tops best 6500-6600.VERY IMPORTANT
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 01:38 AM
  #13  
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in the CDI or the Electric system of the ATV, there is no RPL limiter ? like normal car ?

But i can hear and feel the Motor RPM, only in very high top speed i can hear is scream,

i must show you, it realy fast !, i got over 68MPH i will do a video with this.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 05:58 AM
  #14  
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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Not good idea to mess with a clutch without a tach.There is no rev limiter in the CDI so you can blow an engine with the wrong clutching.This is why they make premade kits.
Some of us on here have years of clutch knowledge and can get oyu close but still you need a tach.A cheap digital TinyTach will do the job.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #15  
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Question primary clutch springs

I'm wondering if I change just the primary spring, using either EPI almond(patv12) or Dalton o/bl on my bike(07 sportsman 800 stock except 27" bighorns), what effect will this have on the bike? Which one would be better for mostly trail riding with some trail mud? Or would a complete kit be better and why? One more query, might there be a better choice of spring or kit other than the ones mentioned? Thanks
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #16  
ftwflh's Avatar
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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Originally Posted by racer37l
I'm wondering if I change just the primary spring, using either EPI almond(patv12) or Dalton o/bl on my bike(07 sportsman 800 stock except 27" bighorns), what effect will this have on the bike? Which one would be better for mostly trail riding with some trail mud? Or would a complete kit be better and why? One more query, might there be a better choice of spring or kit other than the ones mentioned? Thanks
With big tires on a machine with a roller secondary I would opt for a complete clutch kit made for the set up.In my opinion the Dalton is the best bet even at the price.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 01:26 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Astro Power
Dear All,

My curreny situation, I need more power from my engine.

I have sportsman 500 98, stock 25 inch tire,

My Idle speed is about 900-1000RPM.

about 1200RPM the ATV it starting move.

At full gas, it step to about 3500RPM from 0MPh to 25MPh,
and to 3000RPM from 25MPh to 45MPh,
and step from 3000RPM to 6000-6500RPM from 45MPh to 60Mph.


It is not good for me, and i dont feel enougth power.

I have EBS Clutch (end of 1998 models) original Blue Spring, and original weights.

i want to make more Acceleration so i need more RPM, so instead of 3500RPM i was thinking on 4500RPM.

and the that ATV will start to move in 1700-2000 RPM (Instead of 1200RPM).
So i think need harder Spring: the 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 Load will be harder, to make more RPM and 1 1/4 Load the same to make same top speed.

Like Almond PATV12 : EPI: Clutch Springs

But i dont know if i need to touch it. i think to leave it like that is ok.

I don't want order a kit.

tell me what do you think ? i have the original Service manual in needed.
Have you done any mods to the exhaust or air intake system?I wouldn't really change the clutching if I was going to do any mods in the future and then have to invest in a new primary and secondary clutch along with maybe a new helix and weights to go along with new mods.

With that being said I have spent a lot of time testing different primary and secondary clutch springs, weights as well as different secondary clutches on my Sport 400 that I dragrace.I currently own a Team Roller Secondary, an Aaen Roller Secondary and a factory Polaris Secondary with HPD Super Buttons.Just for the record the secondary that I have chosen to run with is the Team Roller Secondary.After several years of testing and spending way too much money just to gain a couple of 10ths of a second in the 1/8th mile I can tell you that what works for one person will not always work for another.

The most common mistakes that I see from people as well as vendors is using a primary with too high of a shift RPM and using weights that are too heavy.About the best advice that I can give on clutching is to invest in several different primary clutch springs, get a good tach and spend some time at your local IHRA or NHRA dragstrip and compare 60', 330', 660' and MPH times with the different primary springs.

I know this isn't really a good answer to your question, but without knowing what your mods are then it's really tough to even guess where to start at with your clutching.

Here's a video of my Sport 400 at the local IHRA dragstrip where I bracket race in an ATV Bracket Series.My 61 year old father is on the Sport in this video and my primary spring is an EPI orange spring for a snowmobile with a Team Roller Secondary.This pass is on the motor, when I race it I use a 20hp shot of Nitrous Oxide.
YouTube - Sport 400 Primary Spring Testing
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:23 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ftwflh
With big tires on a machine with a roller secondary I would opt for a complete clutch kit made for the set up.In my opinion the Dalton is the best bet even at the price.
My bike doesn't have ebs, would that have anything to do with which kit I need? Would it be better if I had the ebs system?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:29 AM
  #19  
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WaaHeHe94, how close to elk creek do you live? I live just above Bluefield.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:58 AM
  #20  
ftwflh's Avatar
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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IT should have EBS but that doesnt matter.It should have a roller secondary (not the old style button type).If it does nt have a roller secondary just lighten up on the secondary spring setting to compensate for the larger tires.
 
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