Ok, I've read that the 3-way RELAY light conversion will work for the 800 EFI and I've heard others say it will not.

Well, following the instructions on here, mine did NOT work. Switch position:
OFF - Low Beams on
Low - Low Beams on
High - High AND Low beams on

Ok, so they all DO light with in the High position. BUT...why do the Low Beam lights (front) light up when in the OFF position???

I have dbl and triple checked my wiring. If I take away power to the relay they work like normal.

Anyone have any help????

 

Howdy Twin LT80's......is the intensity of the low beam the same in "low and off" positions?.....but at this point I would kinda lean toward a ground. If you tied into a ground from the wiring loom.....make sure it's a true ground wether the ignition key is in the on or off position......I think anyway.......NoJoke

 

NoJoke,

I actually began to wonder about a ground loop as well. Yes, the low beam lights appear to be the same power in all 3 positions. My buddy stopped by today with his 2009 550 sportsman and I was like "hey, you can do this to yours, too" Apparently Polaris figured that out b/c his already has all three lights come on in high.

So, I'm still trying to run this thru my head. The relay hook ups are like this:

#30 green wire (low beams)
#87 red wire (off factory switched blade plug in wiring harness)
#86 yellow wire (high beam)
#85 ground (ran ground to frame)

The only two options I tried differently were to swap #87 and 86 and then I jumped the brown ground wire from the wiring harness instead of the frame. Both offered the exact same results.

So...Either the relay is somehow completing the circuit for the low beam all the time or I have something wired wrong or this really does not work for the EFI and I'd need a solution.

 

check to make shure there isent any power to the high beam wire that triggers the relay.... that be the only reason i can see it not working. if it was a ground issues the relay wouldnt work at all. dose the realy have a diode built in? that may also may explane the odd functions.

id also disconnect the high beam wire (yellow) when the light switch is off if no change disconnect the low beam wire. if it changes theres either a diode in the relay or the relay is faulty. id be checking that relay it just dont sould like its working right. or try a differnt one... good luck

 

I have not done this, but I have wired many relays. No offence meant if you know all this.

A relay allows the power to transfer or be switched at very lo voltages remotely. As noted there are four wires, 86 is ground, 30 is power, 85 is trigger and 87 (and 87a) is the item you want to work or lite. When the trigger wire gets electricity, it fires the relay allowing the intended item to get electricity. I think in your case the LO beam lites.

Again I have not read the instructions or yet done this. But it should work, regardless of model, as its just electricity. In your schematic, are you sure you have a good ground? I mean did you clean the steel under the screw. Dielectric grease on all connections is also a good idea in wet environments too.
The one possible problem I see is your trigger wire. This is what you want to come on with factory switch position. I think in your case, that's the high beam lite. That wire shouldn't terminate at the relay. It needs to run to the lite. Then make up a jumper back to the relay. So when you switch on the hi beams, it sends electricity to the relay, lighting the lo beams too.

If I understand this mod correctly, its a plug and play. No splicing necessary rite? Doesn't sound to me to be that way. BUT as I said I have not done this or laid eyes on the wiring of a sportsman. I have done it many times over in jeeps and trucks.

I hope this isn't too confusing.

CW

 

This is how I did mine without issues. Rev mod included also if you are interested. Double check your ground is good and also be sure where you hook up the the others(green coming of left control harness and yellow off the the pod light harness). Hope it helps!

Reverse mod- pull the headlight pod off and disconnect the two harnesses going to it. On the big harness locate the gray/orange wire and use a splice connector with another 8" piece of wire and have a female spade end connected to it. Now do the same with the brown(ground) wire coming off the lighter/accessory plug. Hook the two female spades to a toggle switch that you can mount on the pod and you are done. You will have to turn the switch to the "off" position to use the yellow override button to scroll through the different modes or if a young or inexperienced rider is on it for safety.

Three headlight mod- you will need a common relay from an auto parts store(I used a five pin because they are most common and came with a wiring harness), four 8" pieces of wire, and splice connectors. With the headlight pod off and the two harnesses unplugged you will need to splice the followoing wires:
#30 on relay to the green wire coming from the harness on the left handlebar
#87 to the positve wire on the lighter plug
#86 to the yellow wire coming off the top headlight harness
#85 to the lighter ground(brown wire)
Once it is all connected you should have all three lights on when switched to HI.

 

Ok, I began troubleshooting tonight and it didn't take me long to figure it out. I checked for power in the trigger wire and the power wire. The power wire (red) becomes hot when the key is turned on.

The yellow which should only be hot when the high beams are in is hot when the ignition is turned on as well.

I checked the wiring diagram and there is a yellow wire from the ignition to a 20a fuse in the fuse block. !!@%$&#^&@#$% it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, I pulled the harness up in the pod and checked for power. THAT yellow becomes hot only when in the HIGH beam...

I tapped into the harness about 4" below the headlight at the front of the chassis. I know everyone states to do this inside the pod. I had asked how far down the harness I could go and this was why.

So...anyone looking to do this be sure to tap the yellow coming from the left handlebar just before it goes down the neck inside the pod just to be safe.

I will tap this tomorrow after work and will strip the heat shrink off the other yellow and remove the pigtail and resolder and add new heatshrink...

Thanks for the help, guys, it got me thinking!!