The smooth part of the clutch is normal on the newer clutches. When Polaris first came out with EBS the bearing had ribs in it for the belt. Here is what causes hard shifting/grinding and the machine creeping.

One way bearing is worn out or dirty to where the is isnt turning freely. Clean and possibly replace the bearing.

The small thin washers on the side of the one way bearing are worn or completely gone, causing the bearing to grab the side of the clutch. Need to install new washers.

Clutches are out of alignment. The only adjustment there is to add/remove shims behind the secondary (transmission) clutch. Also check for broken or loose motor and tranny mounts.

Belt is to tight or wrong size for the machine.

Clutch bushings and /or buttons are worn and clutch isn't fully disengaging.

 

How much side to side movement is normal for the one way bearing?

Mine moves slightly maybe 1 or 2mm. I’m becoming convinced that my problem lies with the ptfe washers on either side of the one way bearing, mostly on the one farthest from the motor. I believe this is causing the belt and bearing to slide the 1 or 2mm away from the motor and the difficulty changing gears.

I’ve ordered the clutch alignment tool and while I don’t believe alignment to be THE issue, it may be part of the issue as a whole. Either way, it will be a good tool to have since I’ve replaced the front motor mount and would like to make sure the alignment and tension are correct. Since removing one shim from the back of the secondary, the belt doesn’t sit as tight against the outermost face of the primary (that’s why it doesn’t creep any more when put into gear), but it does still have a hard time shifting gears. My next step is to build a clutch holder and spider removal tool. A good friend of mine is a machinist and I have a mig welder so I’m confident I can build those tools. If I had the $130 to buy the real tools I would but at this point I have more time than money.

What else should I replace while I have the primary apart? I’m planning on changing the 2 ptfe washers and possibly the buttons. I will be buying a clutch kit in the future so the spring and weights will stay for now. My one way bearing moves smoothly so I don’t believe that to be an issue. I’m sure cleaning the gunk from behind it will also make it move easier. I understand there is another bushing, possibly the movable bushing, that I should check for wear and replace if necessary. What am I looking for with that?

I just called the dealer and they will remove the spider and re-install it for about $45. If i didnt anticipate the possibility of having to have it apart again that would make the most sense. I still may build the tools... Decisions decisions...

 

On ATV's there should be very little to none side to side movement. Snowmobiles require more movement.

Also check the rollers which is the part the weight rolls up and down on. The should turn freely and not be sloppy. Other then that check the moveable bushing and see how sloppy it is, theres not a real good measurement I just go by feel and also the cover bushing. The cover bushing is in the cover plate which is the plate you take off first, its has the six bolts holding it on.

 

Good to hear about the play in the one way bearing. Now I know that is one of the issues. I can’t wait to tear it apart, hopefully there isn’t any permanent damage anywhere.

Would the bad washers cause a slight whine/squeak/squeal when the primary is engaged (maybe the sound is when the clutch is accelerating or decelerating, I cant remember). It’s not constant so most likely when accelerating and decelerating (just the clutches, haven’t ridden it).

 

Well once my mechanic got my bike, and took the clutch cover off, I was suprised at what he found. My belt never actually broke. However, my primary clutch basically exploded and destroyed my secondary, my clutch cover, and my clutch cover back plate. So...I am waiting to hear from him on how much he can purchase a new primary and secondary clutch for, and I purchased a used cover. Just need to get the back plate. I am not looking forward to getting this repair bill.

 

Ouch, thats gonna hurt the walllet a little. I hope you get it fixed and can ride soon. (You might need it to rob the bank to buy some new clutches)

 

What r all the tools needed to do this?

 

To do what exactly?

 

If you need to remove the clutches you will need a clutch puller to pull the primary clutch off the machine. The secondary clutch just remove bolt and it should slide off.

To disamble the secondary clutch to change springs and helix you will want a clutch compression tool and a snap ring pliers. To disassamble the primary to change spring and weights you will need allen wrench 1/8" i think and 3/8" socket.

EPI sells clutch pullers for all machines and the clutch compression tool CCT510 which will work for most brands. www.epiperformance.com

 

Loosen the front bottom moter mount you replaced, with the cover off start the engine and pry the motor one way or the other till the belt rides the center of the pulley then tighten the mount.