I would replace the hub and strut seals to(at least on the damaged side) since you will be replacing the drive shaft. Easier now than to find out later they were leaking! Strut seal is fairly easy,just pop it out and install a new one,the hub seal has to be pressed in(may be why it was dry?) plus you can usually tell if they have been leaking.Plus torque the hub nut to 12 foot pounds only! About the only thing I can think of if awd doesn't work properly after you replace everything would be if there is any damage to the strut inner pole(where the armature plate rides up against) or the coil assembly. OPT

 

If need be to just ride, how can i disconect or overide the awd and ride it as a 2wd atv. Until i can save some cash to fix it rite?

 

Even if you just replace the armature plate and disconnect the awd coil,the hilliard has to be in the hub with the bearings just to keep it steady and not wobbly and if the hilliard is damaged as you say,can still lock up!! This not just like a plain spindle on a two wheel drive atv! All of these parts have to work in unison! It really needs to be repaired to be safe to ride! OPT

 

I will replace the bearings and hilliard, i read a thread were someone could not diagnose after replacing everything so they took the dive shaft out from the splines so the front diff didnt spin. this was a idea if i couldnt figure it out and needed to take it to a shop. it sounded safe to do that because nothing is being effected by doing that. i want the awd to work but this was a worse case type of thing.

 

Thanks old Polaris tech. I got the front end finished and the awd seems to be fine now, when I give it throttle I notice a slite pull to the right, it's not real bad but noticeable. I also have a lot of play in the steering. Could these be tied in together. I ordered new tie rods and a lower stearing bushing. I don't see we're the lower bushing goes but tie rods seam easy. Also my throttle cable is strange it seems to be too easy to adjust. Even when moving steering the idle will change. Ther is a small clip in the box at thumb throttle that seems worn but is a back ordered part. Should I replace the cable?

 

Play in the steering is usually worn tie rod ends.Front end alignment is probably off if pulling one way or another. After you replace the lower steering post block( You have to pull the tank back a little and remove the upper bushings to be able to pull the steering post up,plus the original block is riveted in,some have used bolts instead of rivets when replacing the block(later models were updated to a regular bearing and plate) On the tie rods,just have someone hold the bars straight and you can loosen and adjust toe in/out to where the front wheels toe out about 3/8" when lined up with the rear wheels and with the bars straight (You can use a straight edge OR eye ball em), then test drive. You may have to align a couple times to get it right.PLUS make sure tire pressure is equal(can alter steering!) Pulling should just be an alignment problem unless it pulls drastically to one side, then it could be an awd issue. Adjust throttle to where there is about 18" slack at the thumb throttle.If idle changes when you turn the bars,check for cable binding. Also check at bottom of carb to see if idle adjuster holder spring is broken(almost all do and vibration will cause idle changes). OPT

 

My wife's 05 Scrambler 500 will occassionally keep the left front locked after retuning to 2wd. So far she has been able to just put it in reverse for a couple of feet, then back to forward, and all was fine. I've changed the hub fluid, but think I put in just a tad too much because ther rear seals are leaking a little bit after its been ridden a while. It didn't do that before the fluid change.

Anyway, after reading this, it looks like I need to change the plates. How hard is that?

 

This is a common problem where either side will either stay engaged,lock in even if in 2 wheel drive,etc.TLC has a site saved showing how to do this and hopefully he will chime in! Or you can check You Tube!
Sounds like its time to change the armature plates and seals(hub and strut seals) Do this on BOTH sides as the other armature plate and seals will eventually do the same thing! Hub seal has to be pressed in or you will damage them! I've had customers just want to have the bad side repaired only to have them come back in shortly and do the other side! When repaired and filling with hub fluid,have it at the 12 o'clock position,fill to where it almost overflows,and let it sit a few minutes to make sure the fluid has reached all the way into the hub. then turn to 3 or 4 o'clock position and let the excess drain(a little extra won't hurt! Also make sure the hub nut is torqued to max 12 foot pounds(144 inch pounds) I always torqued to about 15 pounds or so,then backed off 1/2 turn and torqued to 12 pounds(you may have to loosen a tad to line up cotter pin) OPT

 

Another problem, awd seems to be fine now. I noticed a fuel leak from the petcock. I also realized I could not cut off fuel it drips. The Atv sometimes will start then eventually will die out. I just replaced the rev box now this. How much fuel should drain out? I took tank off and it seems to have a steady drip not a good flow. How much should come out? I ordered a new one since it was cheep to replace. Any other ideas. If I replace that and it seems to still not run what should I check next.

 

Replace the leaking petcock,then have the fuel line off the carb! Fuel only flows a steady stream when the engine turns over from vacuum to the fuel pump,then it should flow pretty well! If doesn't pump out a steady pulsating stream,then check the vacuum line from the pump to the carb or it could have a fuel pump problem! Usually fuel pumps are pretty dependable. If fuel flows ok and still doesn't run right,tear into the carb! OPT