Ok so I went ahead and took apart my 1996 scrambler. Figured I could rebuild a truck motor, I can fix a quad. ( plus I admit, I take apart everything lol). So I get it out and the piston is a Wiseco 84mm. I took the head and piston to my local Polaris dealer and he said ( I could be wrong on these numbers) it was .011 out of round. He said he could bore to 85mm, the farthest he could go, and I could probably get by even though it would not have a tight clearance like it should. He said that is the max bore. Like I said I could be wrong on those numbers, but I do remember he told me I need to go three sizes bigger but the pistons only come 2 sizes bigger than what I got now.

I told him I wanted to do it right because I was keeping the quad. So my options he said were to resleeve (about $300) or buy a new cylinder ( $440) and start over with the stock 83mm piston. I took it home to ponder what to do, and deceided to call Rick Ritter. He told me there is more bores left. Though its possible he misheard me. So I am mailing the cylinder and piston to him to have him look at it tommorow morning.

So my question are:

1. On cars and trucks you put the heads on and use a ring compressor to compress rings and then drop the piston and rod in from the top of the head. Then connect the rods from the bottom. My rod on the quad is still stuck to the crank. So how do I compress the rings to get it connected to the rod and up inside the cylinder head? To me its backwards from what I am used to.

2. C-clips on the wrist pins? Do I need the special tool my manual says or does anyone have a cheaper route that works.

3. Any preference on gaskets, or just use whatever I get from Rick Ritter?

Thanks again everyone. By the way that Rick Ritter seems pretty damn nice on the phone. From my surfing the web, it appears he knows alot about these motors so hopefully he can get my cylinder head fixed, cheaper than a new one.

 

bottom of cylinder is tapered, I use needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver for the c-clips, cover rhe hole around the rod well with rags so you dont drop one in the bottom end, can usuall compress one ring at a time by hand to get started in cylinder can also use ring compressor, rick ritter is very good to deal with

 

bottom of cylinder chamerfered.

start with cyl aligned to the studs. Don't want to turn it after piston is in.
Most important thing on two-stroke is positioning the ring on the locating pins. but the rings often won't compress far enough to go in the cylinder, if they are over the pins.
but not that hard compress with your fingers.