The 325 engine is basically the same as the 330 and when they came out in 2000 I had 4 engines blown! All of them had plenty of oil,even though an update later came on the oil cooler hose update kits(screw adapter fittings instead of hose clamps),no oil line blew off or leaked on these engines! Rods on the 325 and 330 are just like ones on cars not pressed on!They just ate the bearings and cranks up even though full of oil! Polaris engineers and I had a big go around on this and they kept saying gas in oil the cause ,but I knew better especially when oil levels were spot on,not over full or gas contaminated! Only thing I could think of was a bad bunch of lower rod bearings or clearances too tight on the early machines. Never had a lower end problem on later model 2001-2002 325's or on the 330 engines. Kellyisu's 330 may have been an exception or as you say could have run low on oil??OPT

 

So there were a lot of screw ups with this engine? Wow, thats too bad.
He might b able to tell if it was ran low on oil by looking at the cases. Thye have that burn on stained look.

Thanks for the info OPT!!! Always nice to read your info. Thanks again!!

 

My old 2000 325 boss is still running strong. Always stayed on top of the maintenance. Maybe the trick is running it in to a few trees and occasionally flipping it upside down. As badly as some of my family and friends have treated that thing, I wouldn't have blamed it for quitting years ago.

 

Just out of curiosity, did you use assembly lube when you put it together??

 

My choice of assembly lube was Wurth copper coat adhesive lubricant (CU1100). I just loaded up the brush and lathered on plain bearings,cam journals,etc. Not really an assembly oil but a thick lubricant with copper flakes suspended that would not just sling off like oil! I used it on every engine along with regular assembly oil on cylinders,pistons,valve springs,etc. When I rebuilt conventional cranks with new rods,bearings and pin,I would coat he bearing before I put the rod on.High dollar lube,but you never had to worry about it during start up. OPT

 

Hey, thanks for some more of the feedback guys. I havn't been on here for a while, but did plan on giving an update. I put the rebuild on hold for a while, but will be doing most of the rebuild this week.

The motor did have fresh oil in it and filled at proper level when the the wrist pin locked up. When putting everything back together on the first rebuild I just made sure I lubed everything up good with polaris oil.

 

OPT
From the top of my post, this winter my atv kept getting harder to start and to keep idleing, also started to sputter when givin initial throttle with little excelleration. The atv wasn't run much this winter before the problem occured on the fresh rebuild prior. While waiting for parts on my rebuild this week I tore down the carb for bebuild as well and was amazed as to how dirty the bowl was. It was full of a crystalized substance, almost like a very fine sand that was off white or a real light sandy color. I'm guessing it was a break down of the 10% Ethanol gas. This winter when problems started I also put in the gas a little heat, and I mean just a tad, very very little. Do you think this might have contributed to the wrist pin almost compleatly locking up?

 

Not really on the gas HEET (water remover/stabilizer) causing any crank or rod problems!If you let it sit up or don't use it regularly,use Marine STABIL,better than HEET, regular red Stabil or even Sea Foam on removing water from ethanol fuel. I had to learn the hard way myself,I had Seafoam and regular Stabil in my own Honda and still had to pull all four carbs because of rusty deposits and stopped up jets! I can crank it now at any time and NOT have to worry since I've used the Marine Stabil. Nothing I've found works better yet. OPT

 

Thanks for the info on the marine stabil OPT!! Say, do you suggest flushing the oil cooler on the rebuild, and if so, what would be the best way? Thanks again ))
Kelly

 

You've already got it drained if you removed the lines,not necessary to flush out. JUST remember to change the oil at 20-25 hrs OR sooner when you get it running. Any particles will be caught by the oil filter! That's why we stressed 25 hours to customers on new machines! Then we recommended 50 hrs after that,NOT what the manual said! Manual was TOO long for just 2 quarts of oil. OPT