I have a few issues and I'm looking for recommendations:

1. When backing up a hill and putting it in a forward gear, it sometime feels like something in the front right hub is binding a bit and it pulls hard to the right. If I back up and go forward again, this usually fixes it. I'm guess it's something to do with the clutch in that hub. How do I troubleshoot this? The large nut on the front left was loose and there was a lot of play in the front hub. It didn't do this before, but I took it apart to inspect it, and while the play is gone, I get this binding now. I'm assuming I bumped something on the clutch and something might be out of alignment on it.

2. Back wheels will wiggle up and down 1/4" or so when jacked up in the air. Assuming rear wheel bearings and bushings. It's the shaft actually wobbling in the hub, not control arm problems.

3. Inner and outer u-joints on the rear are destroyed.

My plan is to get all new bearings and guts for the rear hubs. Should I just buy replacement u-joints and fix the rear axles, or should I just buy some remanufactured axles? Is it possible to use the newer 1999 model axles on the rear? The 1998 axles attach to the transmission with a bolt. The 1999+ axles attache with a snap ring. Somehow I doubt the groove for the snap ring exists in the tranny on the 1998, but it's worth asking.

Any suggestions?

 

As far as front end pulling,its usually the armature plates that wear and become magnetized and will allow one wheel or the other to engage even if awd switch is off. I'd replace plates on BOTH wheels,plus make sure front hubs are not dry,could have seal leakage at hub or strut. The older model rear u-joint drive shafts can't be updated with later models,have to replace u-joints or complete drive shaft which is getting very expensive! If drive shaft yokes are damage and ovaled and worn,they may need replacing along with the u-joints. A manual will help,especially on front hubs as they have a "rolling torque" specs for hub nut. OPT

 

Awesome. I have the Clymer manual. The hub I took apart is torqued correctly.

It looks like the caps on the u-joints are still solid in the yokes, it's the part inside the cap that is worn.

 

Inside the cardan assy (u-joint) are small needle bearings that usually are worn and dried out if haven't been kept greased. I've found some that just crumbled when taken apart.
As the manual says on the front wheel torque,if you have correct torque and hub is still loose then replace the hub nuts. This is the older system,doesn't have a good "set" torque as the later models that just used castle nuts and cotter pins. You can try to just tighten up further until you have the hub snug but not tight and see if awd works properly. If still pulls to one side,I would tear into hubs,check bearings,seals,and replace armature plates. OPT

 

I just did some reading, and if the torque is just a hair too much, it will cause unwanted engagement of the hub. I could be 1 ft/lb or so over the spec, since I had to go a little extra to get the cotter pin holes to line up.

When I do the rear wheel bearings, are there any other spacers or seals that I will need to replace in there? The shaft coming through the hub wiggles in and out and up and down on both sides.

 

SORRY,thought you had the old hub "flex nut" !! The torque on your nut should be 12 foot pounds! I always "preloaded bearings" by torquing to about 15 pounds or more,backing off nut and final torque at 12 foot pounds. IF cotter pin won't line up,just BACK OFF nut a little until it does! If bearings,armature plate,hilliard are all good,WON"T affect awd. BIG snap ring has to be removed on rear hub first after you remove hub! There are 3 small place on inside of rear hub where bearing can be struck with a dull punch and driven out,BUT best to have hub secure in a vice if you have one OR on 2 blocks of wood and HEAT hub up with torch while you have the big replacement bearing in the freezer!!(will allow new bearing to"shrink" a little and just drop in after you re heat hub after old bearing is removed) Then replace snap ring. There is just the bearing,NO spacers or seals! Just make sure new bearing seats fully or snap ring can't go on! OPT