I have a 2005 Polaris Ranger. When I went to start it this AM, it gave about a half a crank and quit cold. No lights, nothing. It was as is the battery was suddenly disconnected. I checked the battery voltage, it was fine. I did not find any loose or corroded connections. Is there a system breaker or other element to reset? If so, where? It is not obvious.

 

500 carburetor or 700 efi Ranger? Had a few ECM modules go out on the 500 (mostly 2004 and 2005 models),would cut power to switch,lights,etc even if the battery is good.Its the large silver module under hood mounted on left side.Basically only difference on the 700 ECM is that it receives power from the ECU! Both ECM modules have two large connectors on each end,power in and out. You can use a test light and usually will show power on one connector side and not the other if bad. Part numbers are only one digit apart. (4011089 on the 500 and 4011090 on the 700 ECM! Hope this helps,first thing I could think of since I've had the same problem. Even had customers replace batteries,switches,etc before they brought em in!! OPT

 

Thanks for confirming my only remaining hunch (fear?). If I remove the ECM and take it to a dealer, can they bench test it before I replace it? Or is there just no other explanation and I should just take the hundreds of dollars with me? Are there prevenative measures to make sure it does not go out again or is it under the heading of "stuff just happens"?

 

We didnt have a"bench test" for the ecm,we just checked if had power in and power out with a test light. I would list it under the heading of if it has "t****s or wheels,you will have trouble with it! OR as you mentioned"stuff just happens" OPT

 

With a test light, I found several "hot" supply wires in various places. I replaced the ECM, but still no juice in the "go" systems (fuel pump, lights, starter). Isn't there a fusible link or other element with a similar function? There appears to be no fuse block or circuit breakers. There is one goofy wire that comes off a hot connection that has an integrated pouch of some sort that appears to be protecting a connector from the single hot side wire to two wires that exit the pounch. I suppose that it is conceivable that a bad ECM was shipped to me, but I'd not consider that likely. Suggestions?

 

This is what I always called a thermal fuse(circuit breaker),its a fuse that would shut off and reset . You can check with the test light also if it has power on each side of pouch red wire(should have) plus they can corrode internally even if the pouch is intact.Just slit the pouch open if in doubt and you will see its just a small square circuit breaker.(check for tight connections and shouldn't be corroded) Plus one other area to check is under the front drivers side wheel,look against the back and you will see a brake switch,check that connections are good and secure because it also controls the operation of the starter when the brake is pushed along with the brake lights. Keep us updated PS if you find that the circuit breaker or something else was the problem,JUST keep the old or new ecm stored away as they eventually WILL go out!! We replaced quite a few on the 04 and 05 Ranger 500 carb models OPT

 

If it turns out it is the circuit breaker giving you the problem don't buy one at a Polaris dealer.

You can get these at any auto parts store for about 6 dollars.

 

Thanks for the tips, guys. I again confirmed that the battery was up. I had good connectivity on both sides of the thermal circuit breaker, but slit the pouch and inspected anyway. It was pristine and jumping around it, as expected, had no effect. The brake switch worked fine, too. I think at this point I'll give up and haul it to the good men at the Kerrville, TX dealership. I hope that I was not shipped a bad ECM, as that would be the most expensive "ouch" on this whole deal. This vehicle is an important workhorse in my ranching/conservation operation and I can't afford for it to be out of service much longer. Let me know if you think of anything else to try between now and Friday, June 3, 2011, which is when I'll drop it off. Thanks again!

 

Seems like you've done pretty well on trying to track down the problem. As long as the battery has been load tested and good,the ignition switch itself,or a short or bad connection at at the terminal board?? Only things I can think of just off top of my head. Keep us updated. OPT

 

My ranger is doing the same thing- but if i turn the head light switch and the 4x4 switch on it will crank. I can then de-activate the 4x4 switch and about half the time turn the lights off and it will stay running. It will not start now without going through that sequence. any thoughts?

rgo