Ranger Electrical Issue
Jul 18, 2011 | 02:45 PM
#11
Polaris ATV Expert
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Retired and loving it!
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From: North Texas
Welcome to the forum! If your Ranger is the carb model,like posted above most of electrical problems were from the big ecm module under the hood. It mainly controls the charging and fan operation,but can short out and cause no power to ignition switch,lights,etc.You have a squirrely one!! I would check under the dash on the connections going to both the h/l switch and awd switch (and ohm out the switches themselves,could be shorting out?) and trace into the harness for any shorts,plus check the terminal board connections.If all checks out,then could be an ecm problem? Hopefully this is a start! OPT
Jul 5, 2014 | 02:05 PM
#12
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jul 2014
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My 8/06 2WD Carb 500 Ranger is in a similar fix. When I turn on the ignition I can hear the fuel pump (?) run. However I get no dash lights no power to the rocker switches or cigarette lighter, none to the gear indicator.
I get 4 volts out of one pin from the ECM with 12+ volts going in. Checked all the switches, the fusible link and reseated all plugs.
Appears to me the ECM is out. Tho why one was ever needed in the first place is beyound me on a Carbed version.
Is there a wire around to bypass the ECM completely?
Andre`
I get 4 volts out of one pin from the ECM with 12+ volts going in. Checked all the switches, the fusible link and reseated all plugs.
Appears to me the ECM is out. Tho why one was ever needed in the first place is beyound me on a Carbed version.
Is there a wire around to bypass the ECM completely?
Andre`
Jul 5, 2014 | 02:50 PM
#13
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 24,350
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From: North Texas
Not really as the ecm controls too many things. Depending on the model it incorporates the regulator/rectifier,engine temperature controller,fan motor power, solid state circuit breakers,one for battery protection,the other breaker for lamps including the hot lamp,instruments,awd power,and accessory power. Just too many things it controls and all it takes is one section of it to short out.Not like the old days with separate modules that you could track down and replace.If you're an electrical engineer with access to individual components and test equiptment you could possible rebuild one,but the average person can't. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Dec 20, 2015 | 08:36 PM
#14
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1
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Ranger 700
Hello I'm new to this so bare with me. I have a 2008 700 ranger and I'm having issue blowing 4x4 fuse. Sometimes it will work fine and other times it will pop fuse. It seems that it's when it's in four wheel drive. Today i was cutting trees in muddy field and it was fine. A whilefter putting around it blew the fuse. Put a new one in and it popped agin right away.then the main power fuse popped. The main power fuse never pops when I'm not in four wheeler drive. I'm confused any help would be much appreciated
Dec 21, 2015 | 03:02 AM
#15
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 24,350
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From: North Texas
Fuse block itself from all the vibration caused a lot of problems on the atvs and Rangers. Pull the block up and check the wiring. Connections can work loose and touch other wires or the frame causing fuses to pop or the terminals can corrode over time. If that's the problem you can either replace it with the same type fuse block or use individual sealed fuse holders as some have done.Per 080 029 036 4 ATO ATC Delphi Fuse Block Panel 4 Gang 12 V Blade Style Fuse | eBay Delphi SEALED Fuse Holder Up to 40 Amps Waterproof PA66 9" Lead PN 12101855 | eBay Or any type marine style fuse holder to prevent moisture would work.
Jan 18, 2019 | 06:15 PM
#16
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
First Time Owner—Help!
Thanks for all who posted on this thread thus far. I bought an ‘05 Ranger with low hours (250), and it ran great when I test drove it. And thennnn...it went downhill.
in the summer, it will run for 10-15 minutes, then stall out when it gets hot. In the winter (Michigan), when it gets really cold, I turn the key and the dash and lights don’t work, nor does the engine turn over. However, I do hear the fuel pump turn on and the battery shows to be well charged. It if warms up 10-15 degrees in the garage, everything will work as it should. The ironic thing is that when it’s really cold outside (if it starts) the engine no longer stalls.
From reading the thread above, I have a few working theories (but I really have no idea since I’m a first-time UTV owner—ty for your patience).
1. The ECM is bad; since it appears to regulate most of the electrical functions including engine temperature, it could be the common thread between the stalling in the summer and the odd winter electrical behavior.
2. The fuel pump is overheating in summer, but the cold winter air prevents this. Replacing fuel pump would fix summer stalling issue, but not address the winter electrical issues.
Anyone have advice on where to start? I’d truly appreciate any thoughts you can share!
in the summer, it will run for 10-15 minutes, then stall out when it gets hot. In the winter (Michigan), when it gets really cold, I turn the key and the dash and lights don’t work, nor does the engine turn over. However, I do hear the fuel pump turn on and the battery shows to be well charged. It if warms up 10-15 degrees in the garage, everything will work as it should. The ironic thing is that when it’s really cold outside (if it starts) the engine no longer stalls.
From reading the thread above, I have a few working theories (but I really have no idea since I’m a first-time UTV owner—ty for your patience).
1. The ECM is bad; since it appears to regulate most of the electrical functions including engine temperature, it could be the common thread between the stalling in the summer and the odd winter electrical behavior.
2. The fuel pump is overheating in summer, but the cold winter air prevents this. Replacing fuel pump would fix summer stalling issue, but not address the winter electrical issues.
Anyone have advice on where to start? I’d truly appreciate any thoughts you can share!
Nov 28, 2020 | 07:52 PM
#18
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Thanks for all who posted on this thread thus far. I bought an ‘05 Ranger with low hours (250), and it ran great when I test drove it. And thennnn...it went downhill.
in the summer, it will run for 10-15 minutes, then stall out when it gets hot. In the winter (Michigan), when it gets really cold, I turn the key and the dash and lights don’t work, nor does the engine turn over. However, I do hear the fuel pump turn on and the battery shows to be well charged. It if warms up 10-15 degrees in the garage, everything will work as it should. The ironic thing is that when it’s really cold outside (if it starts) the engine no longer stalls.
From reading the thread above, I have a few working theories (but I really have no idea since I’m a first-time UTV owner—ty for your patience).
1. The ECM is bad; since it appears to regulate most of the electrical functions including engine temperature, it could be the common thread between the stalling in the summer and the odd winter electrical behavior.
2. The fuel pump is overheating in summer, but the cold winter air prevents this. Replacing fuel pump would fix summer stalling issue, but not address the winter electrical issues.
Anyone have advice on where to start? I’d truly appreciate any thoughts you can share!
in the summer, it will run for 10-15 minutes, then stall out when it gets hot. In the winter (Michigan), when it gets really cold, I turn the key and the dash and lights don’t work, nor does the engine turn over. However, I do hear the fuel pump turn on and the battery shows to be well charged. It if warms up 10-15 degrees in the garage, everything will work as it should. The ironic thing is that when it’s really cold outside (if it starts) the engine no longer stalls.
From reading the thread above, I have a few working theories (but I really have no idea since I’m a first-time UTV owner—ty for your patience).
1. The ECM is bad; since it appears to regulate most of the electrical functions including engine temperature, it could be the common thread between the stalling in the summer and the odd winter electrical behavior.
2. The fuel pump is overheating in summer, but the cold winter air prevents this. Replacing fuel pump would fix summer stalling issue, but not address the winter electrical issues.
Anyone have advice on where to start? I’d truly appreciate any thoughts you can share!
So did you replace the ECM, and did that dive your problem?
Thanks
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