After riding a yamaha 7500 miles on the stock belt, riding a 2002 Arctic Cat on the stock belt, with 29.5 swamp lites, and riding a Hondamatic with..pretty much no issues..

What in the world is wrong with Polaris clutches, that they burn the belts up!?!?!
If Polaris didn't burn belts faster then wearing tires, i'd be interested in one...

However, no offenses to any polaris riders on this post. I'm simply curious.

 

From my experience people that have the most problem with Polaris belts,ride in HI range under loads too much instead of low range,which will eat up belts from heat and stress no matter what brand of Atv they own! Just from what I've seen over the years! Clutches are fine,they do wear and need attention the same as any brand does after a period of time. I would say 95 percent of belt related problem is owner related,not because of any defect or engineering problem on the atv. I've had farmers and ranchers that put em through as much or more than any pleasure rider and have had NO belt problems because unlike a lot of atv owners they know about loads and what gear range to be in!! A lot of "new" riders have even asked me does and "automatic" atv have a "low; range built into the hi range same as an automatic transmission on a car! And about the same percentage 95 percent "NEVER have even opened there owners manual and actually read it all the way through!! OPT

 

they all have their problems, most are operator related, Ive worked on arctic cat and yamaha clutches too

 

I've run thousands of miles on polaris atv's with not one belt related problem. As stated before, most times it's driver error and proper gear selection is key.

 

I have over 4000 miles on my current Polaris belt 9800 miles on my machine and have never had a belt problem period .

 

I put 2000 miles on my belt and it still looked new, I just thought 2000 miles out of a $70 part that takes 20 minutes to change was not a bad deal so I just changed it for the heck of it. I,m sure it would of lasted another 2000 miles by the looks of it.

 

so just to clerify my understanding on this
1) if I am pulling something (granted weight has a play in this also obviously an empty yard cart would not grant low range) OR
2) doing under 20 MPH (or mudding or hill climbing (which I do slow anyways))
I would use low range correct???

this is what I was told anyways by the dealer

 

You can ride slow in High range as long as your not under heavy load. It would be a drag to switch from high to low when your just putting around.

 

What happens when u have no low range and only high and reverse?

 

Don't work it too hard.