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198? Trail Boss 250

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Old 12-22-2011, 03:18 PM
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Default 198? Trail Boss 250

I have a problem with my trail boss. I am new to 2 stroke engines and to polaris ATVs. My trail boss had been sitting for about 8 years . The engine would run with carb cleaner sprayed in the carb but then I cleaned the carb, fuel tank and spark plug and then When i crank it the starter barely turns and oil is coming out of the starter. I cannot seem to be able to get the starter off. The recoil is broken too. I really want to see the ATV run and drive before i put the money into a new starter.. What causes the oil to come out of the starter and any advice about getting the ATV to run will be much appreciated.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:40 PM
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Welcome to the forum! How about fresh gas,carb rebuilt,not just cleaned, crank seals,new plug,air filter if needed and drain the engine crankcase(probably where the oil/ gas accumulation is draining down to the starter!). After sitting 8 years it needs at least that especially since the crank seals are leaking too! Hopefully you can get it going with out having to tear it all apart! Also run at least a 50-1 mixture in the first tank of gas! If the recoil spring isn't broken ,you can wind a new rope easy. Keep us posted on the progress! OPT
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:55 PM
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Thanks for your help. How can I get to the crank seals? do i have to take the drive clutch off of the engine to do so? Also do you think the starter i have and be cleaned and reused, and how do i get it off. Thanks again.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:07 PM
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Try to get it running first! You have a 10 mm bolt center of the crank case you can remove to drain any excess gas/oil. Should be a drain on the starter motor also. Try all the above first except for seals and you may get lucky? If it wont crank or wont idle,then a compression check(should be a minimum of 100 psi) and then crank seal replacement. You have to have a drive clutch puller( about 30 bucks) and a puller for the flywheel (good steering wheel puller will do) to get to the seals. If you're going to replace the seals,then this is the best time to pull the starter since you will have the clutch off. Just remove the rear clutch also and backing plate to get to the starter bracket. The two other starter bolts are inside the case behind the recoil. Starter may be able to be cleaned up and reused along with cleaning the starter bendix (gearshaft). If too much trouble just check DB Electrical for cheap replacement starters. Plus I imagine ALL oil and fuel lines need replacement? Good luck. OPT
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:45 PM
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Thanks I got it running but oil just keeps draining out. So I guess I'll have to change the seal after all.thank you for all your help
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 06:29 AM
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did you drain the crankcase? They will accumulate oil/fuel in there over time, and fill up, needs drained once in awhile, especially if the carb float valve tends to leak.
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:12 PM
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I Drained it and the flow of fluid slowed. It has almost stopped completely. Is there any thing else you recommend to get this atv back in top shape?
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:08 PM
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Full service after sitting 8 years is highly recommended! Just change the trans fluid (use Polaris AGL OR oil suitable for chain driven transmissions) Flush the brake fluid,replace or grease the chains if not rusted,grease all fittings and be sure to check the tires and suspension.Also check the air box for cracks(this was a major problem on the 250) If it will sit up any length of time use marine Stabil in fuel to keep ethanol from causing problems. Hopefully you may not have to replace the crank seals.Just don't let it sit for 8 years again! OPT
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:03 PM
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I hope I don't have to replace them. Trust me I won't let this atv sit.it has power to do just about any thing. I do have one more question for you though. It wants to bogg down when I accelerate hard some of it has to deal with the carb needing to be rebuilt(which I plan to do very soon) but are there any short term remedies? Or any suggestions that might help? Thanks
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:31 PM
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Just go through the carb and replace the needle and seat, if float arm and pin are worn and wobbly replace them too! Also make sure the float arm is parallel with the carb body when carb is upside down. All piston port engines are a little boggy if you nail the throttle versus the newer reed valve machines. OPT
 


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