If i can't get this to go, had anyone machined off the ridges on the one-way?? I just want to be done with this thing once and for all. I may even have a spare one to try it first. I cant see it hurting the belt?

 

well it works now?? i took motor out, put it back in cleaned clutches as well as a new belt? I don't know hopefully it lasts more than a few days.


When i had the clutches split on the bench if i forced the belt against the fixed sheave by hand and pushed it down to the one way, the pitch on the belt would not match the oneway. It was only say .020-.040 out. OPT do you see an issue machining this amount of the face of the one way, and adding what ever i take off to the other side? This way there is only half a peak against the fixed sheave therefore forcing the belt to likely mesh? I know theres a seal there, but the steel protrudes past it a bit. I guess i'm just thinking ahead to next time already as i'm certain its gonna happen

 

You do have the 3211069 belt ? I understand what you're tying to do, the one way is about $135 if it doesn't work,but if you've replaced the washers and shimmed and still have problems,this actually sounds logical If it helps to keep the belt tracking in the middle at idle,then once off idle the one way is away from the belt and doesn't play that much of a part in the clutch operation other than allowing the outer sheath to go inwards through the bushing to tighten up the belt. BUT if you build up the inside too much on the one way(or take too much off the one way groves then the clutch may wobble from the slack in the fixed bushing as it slides and the sheath may not be able to compress all the way in? If you have a used one way like you say,a little experimentation may be worth trying! OPT