Hi All,

Is this the plug that I need to pull to drain the crank case of a 455cc 2012 400HO?



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I will be pulling the right running board to do the change, as it will make my life a little easier.

 

This is the 14mm sump drain plug,but you really don't have to pull it. Drain your remote tank, leave the oil filter on,crank the engine for NO more than 20 seconds,then kill it. The eight ounces in the sump will drain out the remote tank. Remove the filter and replace.Fill with two quarts fresh oil and run at least 4-5 minutes,then check dipstick level. Should be right on the full mark. This came from a Polaris engineer and I was skeptical at first,but it works and will pump the sump oil out. Started doing this on all the 500s and 400s and never had a problem. Also not necessary to pull the tank screen filter until about 100 hrs or so and probably will be clean if you change oil regularly.Then you would need to prime the oil system by blocking off the tank vent line to get a quick flow to the head. Not necessary to prime by just flushing. Plus since they eliminated the recoil start there isn't a 14mm drain plug on the bottom of the cover,so if you're in deep water a lot might be a good idea to pull the cover every now and then to check for any water and seal up cover with clear rtv sealant. OPT

 

Thanks OPT! So you are sayung to let it run for 20 seconds? And no need to prime unless I pull the screen?

Thanks for the tip. I never ride in water deeper than the bottom of the running board. That can get expensive real quick.

 

No need to prime,but if you're leery about it (like I was at first) just pinch off the tank vent tube for a couple minutes when you crank it up to remove any doubts about it priming. OPT

 

Thanks again! Is the 'whoosh' of air clearly audible when you let the vise grips off?

 

Not always,but there will especially be an air hiss when it's a new rebuild on a completely dry engine.. Plus it got to where I couldn't hardly hear anyway. Too many years of loud noise. OPT

 

you dont need to remove the floor board to get at that. on my 07 i use a long extention. it can be tricky, but works

 

you can get to it without removing the flooboard, but now I just do what OPT said above...drain the sump and then start the engine up and let it run for about 10 seconds or so and you will see it suck the oil out of the case

 

And running it dry for 10 seconds after you put the fresh oil in won't hurt?

 

Nope! There is still a film of oil coating all engine parts and 10 seconds or so won't hurt.Just drain the main oil tank,when it's drained run the engine for about 10 seconds or so and kill it. Then the sump oil will drain out of the main oil tank. Then you can replace the oil filter(will have the remainder of the old oil in it) and add two quarts fresh oil.Run for about 4-5 minutes(you can pinch off the tank vent line if you wish) ,then kill it to get an accurate reading on the dipstick when screwed down all the way.
Like I said I was leery too when the Polaris engineer told me about this and even asked him twice After the first time I saw how easy it was and never had a problem even on repeat oil changes on the same atvs that came in for service. OPT