should this model have an electric start or just the pullstart, it looks like a starter underneath and it has a battery, but no start button

 

Start button is on the left hand switch! Cant remember if this year model (2000) had the combination slide on-off emergency red switch that you pushed UP to engage the starter? Loosing track of years this type switch was used. OPT

 

I never got to the second compression check, when i put the side back on from checking the woodruff key, I pulled the rope to make sure it was working properly,it tried to start and eventually fired up, what kind and how much oil should it take in the crankcase, I really appreciate all the help OPT

 

must not have an electric start on it,on the left hand side is the high and low beam-on and off switch-and override button

 

Now that you have the crank case cleared of fuel and it's running, replace the carb needle and seat to keep it from doing it again,plus not a bad idea on the old two strokes to turn the fuel valve off after use. No oil in the crank case! It receives it's lubrication from the gas/oil mixture. The oil tank in the front uses two stroke injector oil,any tcw3 rated injector oil is ok (Penzoil,Wallworld oil,Quick Silver,etc) Plus push up on the off switch on the left hand control and see if it works.Think this was one of the year models of the funky kill/start button. OPT

 

Here again you are the man OPT, the kill switch is the starter button ,thanks again

 

Hi I have the same machine, 2000 Polaris xplorer 250 4x4 in great shape but will not start. I bought it off the original owner who said he did not ride it much and from the looks of it that should be true. I cleaned the carb already and went ahead and honed and change the rings cause I was thinking it could be low on compression even though the cylinder looked great. It has compression now when you pull the cord slow but when you pull it fast it hits compression once and then seems like it loses it, any idea what it could be? Any help would be awesome thanks

 

I'm leery about just honing cylinders and replacing rings only on a two stroke.Plus you did install new head and base gasket and torque to 18-20 foot pounds? Even though this little engine is only 6:1 compression,a new top end should hold around 130 psi or more. If the pressure drops it might be loosing it through the rings,gaskets plus even the crank seals may have something to do with it.Being this old, crank seals would be suspect any way. Usually the one behind the drive clutch is the worst one to leak.If it does lower end compression drops and can't build enough pressure to shoot air/oil/gas mixture through the transfer ports for ignition. First thing I do is a good compression check with a gauge. If it's at least 100+ psi,then I go towards the crank seals. A leak down test is really best as it can trace down where any leaks may be.Here's an example.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii5K0vbOoSE

 

sorry I guess I should have explained better, I put a whole new top end kit in it, piston, piston rings, gaskets the works and torqued to specs. The man I got it from said it ran fine then he parked it and it sat for about 8 months before he tried to start it again and it wouldn't. Like I said it just strange to me that it would have good compression when you turn it over slow then when you pull it fast it loses it. I tried starting it with the starter and starting fluid and it would pop like it wanted to start and for some reason some of the exhaust smoke would come out of the plastic vent tube piece that covers the clutch that comes up by the head

 

If the carb is clean.good fuel supply,then I'd replace crank seals. I've even found the ones behind the drive clutch partially popped out. 2 stroke has to have good bottom end compression as well as the top end.Here's another good video on how an engine works.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNLE8G3pC0k
Plus here's some cheap crank seals.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Trai...ZYd5zr&vxp=mtr