97 Xplorer Overflow Dripping Gas
 

Hello,

New to the forum but I've been a reader for quite a while.

I have an issue with my carb on my 97 Xplorer 400. It drips gas very slowly from the carb overflow tube. I know from reading other posts in the forum that the common solution for the overflow dripping is a new needle and seat. I did a carb clean and rebuild yesterday with a Moose carb kit. New needle and seat. Verified that they were clean and looked good before use. Still dripping. Does anyone have any additional thoughts?

Also, while apart I cleaned and inspected the carb and any of the remaining parts that I put back in. The float and float arm seemed to be in good shape and I reused them since new ones don't come in a carb kit... The float arm was showing a little wear but nothing that looked too bad for a 15 year old float arm.

Not overly concerned with it since it is such a slow leak but it is aggravating. Any help would be appreciated. :huh:

Welcome to the forum! Could be the float arm and float pin are part of the problem as most people don't replace them since they don't come in the kits and are a dealer item only! These parts are high wear items on the vibrating 2 strokes that can stick, allowing too much fuel even with a new needle and seat. This plus if you don't have the float arm parallel with the carb body can cause too much fuel in the bowl and out the over flow tube. OPT

Wow, appreciate the quick response OPT!

I'd like to tackle this in order of easy to expensive. Verifying that the float arm is parallel with the carb body is free. I'm still dealing with sticker shock and can't get over how much the floats cost. ATV-Parts-Center.com for $20.74 each!

Verifying float arm: To do that I pull the carb again and remove the bowl. My understanding is that holding the carb upside down with the needle not compressed but closed by gravity. The float arm should be parallel to the carb body. Is this correct? If so, I can do that this evening.

Replacing floats and float arm: Can you describe what a worn out float would look like? The floats look perfectly fine but at the end of the day if they are worn out they are worn out. I can easily see how 15 years of vibration should damage a moving part. I just hate to spend $50 replacing something that is perfectly fine.

Thanks for your help!

Replacing the floats themselves aren't necessary,just the brass float arm and float arm pin! You you are correct on how to adjust the float arm.(Although some do hold the carb at an angle to where the float arm is barely touching the needle and checking that float arm is parallel with the carb body,PLUS some go by the manuals recommended inch or mm measurement on float arm height,I just always did it with carb upside down,full pressure on the float needle) You can bend the small float tab to adjust if necessary. Float arm(3130018) is $8.93 and float arm pin (3130361) is $3.95 at Cycle Parts Warehouse. OPT

Ordered the parts (float arm and pin) today. Figured go ahead and replace them while I have it apart. I'll post the result.

Thanks for the assistance!

Well, it certainly took a long time but I finally got the parts in the mail last week. Changed the float arm and pin out last evening. I have the arm parallel with the carb body when the spring loaded pin in the needle is fully depressed. So when I take pressure off of the arm it is in a slight raised position above perfectly parallel. Rode it to get it warm. Still leaking.... not sure what to do next.

I think I'm going to pull the bowl, fill it with gas and visually inspect the floats actually floating. However, I doubt that the floats are actually the problem. I visually inspected them multiple times and they are not holding gas like I would expect if they were damaged.

I'm also wondering if I need to add some more hose onto the overflow and snake it up and down through the frame before having it drop down below the skid plate. Maybe it is creating a siphon that is stronger than the floats ability to shut off the needle / seat???

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Might also be as simple as the drain screw on bowl not tight enough or the brass overflow tube inside the bowl could have a small split allowing fuel to leak before it gets to the top of the tube. Have had that happen on older carbs before. Plus you can set the float arm height just a tad higher by bending the tang down a little and see if it helps. It's always best to have the drain line through the bash plate to keep fuel drips from any heat. OPT

Thanks for the quick response! I really appreciate your thoughts on this!!!

I've tightened the large nut/screw on the bottom of the bowl right next to the overflow tube already. I have a new gasket I could put on it as well. Not sure how that screw not being tight would cause gas to be coming out of the overflow tube? Anyway, I'll go ahead and install the new gasket on it.

Next time I take it apart I will fill the bowl with gas short of the top of the overflow tube and examine the floats and the tube itself. Right now if I turn off the gas the dripping stops pretty much immediately. If the tube was cracked I would think it would continue to drip even after the gas was turned off, at least for a little while? But I will take a close look at that one. Never would of thought of that myself...

When you say set the set the float arm height a tad higher... You mean bend the tab a little so it shuts off the gas from the bowl a little earlier, which equals a less gas maintained in the bowl. Did I understand that correctly?

My overflow tube currently barely makes it to the skid plate. I have to zip tie it to the frame to keep just everyday riding from pulling it back on top of the skid plate. Without the zip tie it ends up making a mess on top of the plate when I park it instead of dripping below the bike. So that said, the overflow tube is pretty much straight down from the carb right now, maybe even a little taunt.

Thanks for the tips!

kg

Yes,by bending the tang down a bit it lowers the gas level in the bowl slightly. The screw tip at the bottom of the bowl also uncovers a small hole in the overflow tube seating area . This is why when you open the screw it drains out the overflow tube line. OPT

Hmmmmm... So, there is a screw head in the bottom of the bowl? I'll need to take a closer look at the bowl. I don't believe I've ever noticed that particular screw. That could be it! Thanks! I'll let you know...

kg

SORRY! No screw on the side of the bowl,just a big drain bolt at the bottom, I was thinking about a four stroke carb!! Just try lowering the fuel level by adjusting the float arm tang,install the new gasket,but still check out the overflow tube for any splits! OPT

Will do. Probably wont get to it until early next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

kg

frustrated
 

I have this same problem with our 1998 Xplorer 300. Would drip gas when engine was shut-off. Replaced needle and seat and now it drips when giving the engine gas. It stops dripping if idling. Float arms are level when pushing down on them. Also tried adjusting so float arm was level when not pressing down and still drips. Filled bowl with gas and nothing comes out any potential cracks and floats do float.

Welcome! If you didn't replace the float arm and pin, it possibly could be the problem. They can become worn and wobbly with age and can stick from vibration,filling the bowl up too far and overflowing.Would show up when you killed the machine,would start dripping. While running gas level is usually below the overflow tube. Most people overlook these parts when rebuilding carbs since they don't come with carb kits. Fuel pumps on rare occasions can cause problems,but with a new needle and seat and float arm,any excess fuel pressure should be stopped. OPT

To be honest, due to whatever; the 999 things on my list that need doing or my disgust with having taken this carb apart 5 times already and not having solved this issue, I haven't jumped back in and looked at the overflow tube to see if it was cracked.

However, since my last post I've just been riding it and shutting the gas off when I park it. I know I need to do it but it just hasn't been a priority. I will post again once I get it done to let you know what I find.

Thanks for all of your advice Old Polaris Tech!

Kurt

Post what you find as it may help the others with similar problems. OPT

I took my carb to local polaris dealer for advice. Guy told me the floats, float arm and pin were fine. He advised me to buy a OEM seat (for $46) and try that. He said the rebuild kits off ebay can be junk. The only thing I installed from the Shindy kit was the seat and needle. I just installed the seat from Polaris. The good news is it no longer drips gas from the overflow tube when pressing the throttle, it now drips gas while idling. I even tried putting the original needle back in and it still drips. Only thing I haven't done is buy and install a Polaris needle.

Just bend the float tang slightly down,cutting carb bowl fuel level to see if stops dripping at idle through the over flow tube. Can't trust a lot of aftermarket carb parts. Only ones I'd trust is Moose and Sudco atv carb kits. OPT

With the carb upside down, I have bent the tang down. The float arm is no longer horizontal to the lip of the carb, it is on a slight angle upward. The overflow still drips gas at idle. I took the carb back off and I bent the tang down a slight bit more put all back together and it still drips at idle. Repeated a 3rd time and it still drips at idle. If I press the throttle and give it gas the drip stops every time. I have taken a close-up pic of the float arm angle and posted in Fulmers Pics album. I can't seem to get it to show in this thread.

Still sounds like the float needle is not shutting the fuel off completely. Plus did you replace the fiber washer with the needle and seat? I know what your talking about on the float angle versus the carb body. Normally the float arm is parallel with the carb body,but if you've bent the tab down and still drips, the problem has to be either in the needle and seat,leaking past the washer,or float arm sticking even if someone said the arm and pin were ok. Plus is there any side to side movement on the float arm itself? OPT

Yes there is slight side to side movement. Guess I should replace float arm and pin.

Could be enough side to side movement for the float arm to stick. Found this to happen in float arms that were really worn. Hope this solves the problem. OPT

Oh, I did replace the washer. I will pickup float arm and pin. Will post how I make out.

Went to local Polaris dealer for float arm and pin, but they do not carry, must order. A different mechanic looked at the carb and also advised that float arm is fine. He removed the needle and thought there were some small dirt particles on it (I hadn't noticed any). He advised to re-install and see if it still drips. Planning on doing that tonight. If it still drips I will order float arm and pin.

OPT, one thing I have failed to mention is that I have not been tightening down the rubber boots on either end of the carb(Air box end and engine side), could that cause the dripping? I have taken the carb on-and-off so much I stopped tightening to save some time testing.

Tightening the clamps shouldn't cause this, unless the carb is really vibrating ,which can shake the fuel level up past the overflow tube ,but what the mechanic said makes sense in a way. Tiny pieces of trash, also eroding of the inside of fuel hoses from ethanol can cause problems,but usually it blocks flow causing fuel starvation,etc not dripping. Either the needle has a problem,the float arm isn't adjusted enough to shut the fuel level off before it hits the over flow tube,or the brass overflow tube itself may have a small leak causing the dripping. OPT

Latest update. I re-installed the carb on ATV and ran. Still drips at idle. I then tightened the boot between engine and carb, then re-installed the air box and tightened everything up. The carb still drips 1 drop everything 5 seconds. If I hold the carb steady to reduce the vibration the dripping seemed to stop. So, I'm assuming, the drip is due to engine vibration. It does not drip when giving the engine gas, only idle. I don't think there is anything I can do to stop that. Float arm is level with bowl. I'm wondering if this is a common problem with 2-strokes. 2 local dealers say to bring it in and they will take a look and try to resolve. I'm not sure what to do.

It's taking the fuel off idle,keeping the fuel level below the over flow. At idle the bowl is still filling up a tad too much. You can bend the float arm tab down a tad at the float needle which will raise the float arm up a little above parallel with the carb body. Hopefully this should take care of the problem. I've had to do the same on drippers before.Two strokes do vibrate more at times than some four strokes,but all the carbs can drip. They even had rubber dampeners on the 400 two stroke to help with vibration and to keep em from dumping loads of fuel into the intake,but didn't offer this on the 250 and 300s. Worst case scenario you could add a rubber block under the carb against the gear case.
OPT

My 2000 xplorer was doing the same thing .I have just done a total rebuild($600.00plus in parts plus rebore etc) and didn't feel like spending anymore. Shut the fuel cock off every time-no leak. Did this for couple of weeks now i can leave the fuel on and no leakage.

Finally solved it!!!!

Bought two new floats and it is now good to go. Apparently one or both of the floats ended up with gas inside them and lost buoyancy.

I'd like to thank Old Polaris Tech for all of the advice!

kg

You solved it,not me.. :) Never found a leaking float itself at the shop in all these years,just mainly worn float arms and pins,but just goes to show you anything can happen. Glad you found the problem.

I have 1998 400 explorer..can't get front chain tight...loosened pinch bolts and turned can with pickle fork center chain tightens but front one doesn't MOVE??? and it is loose as hell...what could b problem..any body???

If you can turn the front carrier assembly backwards but the chain won't tighten,it could just need a new chain. Front chain when adjusted right should have about 3/8" slack. Anytime you tighten the front,the center chain should loosen. Then you adjust the center carrier to tighten the center chain. If a front carrier is frozen you can use an air impact and a dull bit to free it up.

Is their two different adjustments for both chain??? I loosened both pinch bolts and tapped can with pickle fork it moves freely both ways but only tightens center chain...front chain is so loose almost take of sprocket....what is front carrier??

Does cam... Under pinch bolts tighten both chains or is their two different adjustments???

Here's a manual that can help you understand how to adjust the three chains!Index of /ORV Manuals/Polaris/1996-1998 - All Models

How many of these parts needle seat float and float arm /pin can be replaced without removing the carb if any? Also a link to purchase quality parts for a 2000 425 xplorer is appreciated, thank you. I'm suffering from dripping gas and prefer to go through the hole thing if possible.

Carb has to be pulled to replace a worn needle and seat or anything else. It's not that hard and you only need to get it out far enough to pull the float bowl in most cases. Here's a oem place for the float arm,float pin if needed.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Check Ebay for carb kits as you can get a rebuild kit for the price of the oem needle and seat.The Expedition 425 takes the same needle and seat and other basic parts as the 99-2000 Sportsman 500. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARB-REBUILD-REPAIR-KIT-POLARIS-SPORTSMAN-500-1999-2000-/290997966234?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c0d4959a&vxp=mtr

I have 1998 400 explorer is the vent hose from carb supposed to be hooked to transmission or should they b two separate lines carb line has a vaccum things ma jiggy in it and it runs to tranny ..u can only blow through it one waywhen iI got it it was hooked to tranny allowing gas to overflow in tranny..I turned vacuum plug around so it couldn't flow into tranny..but wondering if they both should be separate???????

Throw the one way check valve away as most of the time they fall off any way. Have separate lines for everything including the carb,transmission, and counter balancer cavity vent. Just run them up out of the way.

Awesome!!! Kinda what I was thinking!! It runs better unhooked any ways..thank u thank u...I have a 2002 700 twin and it had same check valve and that ran better without also..doesn't run at all now was having problems with over heating and then starting knocking real bad I was told crank is bad sums to loved machine only 1200 miles on it now it sits in shed not running!!!!BUMMER...