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Silent chain and driven clutch

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Old 09-12-2012, 07:56 AM
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Default Silent chain and driven clutch

I'm fixing a friends 2001 Trail Boss 325, it's skipping on take off like the chain is jumping teeth but it isn't.
I've read all the threads here on the Silent Chain issue the drive belts.
I've pulled the Trans and split the case, the chain looks great with about 1/2"
of play and nothing else looks worn at all.......not really knowing what I'm doing or looking for I've ordered a new SC and the seals and a new drive belt(OEM). I think I've got the trans and drive belt figured out.
Here's what I can't figure, the driven clutch has a cam and spring, the cam hub has two holes "1" and "2" the disk has three holes"1""2""3" my question is why the five holes for the spring and which holes do I use to put it back together?
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:21 AM
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Stretched/worn silent chains in the gear case are the most reason for skipping /jumping other than outer sprockets and chain. If the outer chain and sprockets are ok,sounds like you've done the right thing in ordering the silent chain and seals. Check the rear(driven clutch) ramp buttons and replace if worn down. Install the spring in the #2 position of the helix(Cam as you called it)),while holding spring in place align the WIDE spline of the helix to the WIDE spline of the shaft and lower the helix down,install bottom of spring in #2 position on clutch. Push helix down a bit,while holding helix and TOP clutch sheath(with your stomach),turn the bottom sheath 1/3 turn COUNTER clockwise. Hold both sheaths(c clamps or helping hands) then knock helix down all the way and install washer and circlip. When you release the clamps the clutch should snap back. This preloads the clutch and the 2-2 position is the stock setting on most machines other than Scramblers,etc. OPT
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:07 AM
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Thanks OPT, I was hoping you would respond to this as you can't beat a man
at his trade! I've lived long enough to learn this!lol School of hard knocks, I've payed my dues.
Now to what I've done to the driven clutch. I cleaned all the parts and put it back together last night with the spring in the #2 holes on both, figuring in middle can't be wrong but decided to ask anyway this morning.
As for the preload didn't have any idea about that as when I was finished the two half's will easily rotate from each other back and forward but stopping at some point so I take it I didn't get it right..........? I did notice when I removed the "c" clip and as the two half's separated one half spun counter clock wise and I thought "oh crap".lol First time working on one of these and no manual, looks like I'm back at school again ! Wonder what it's going to cost me this time?lol
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:49 PM
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did you gt the buttons as he mentioned when you had it part?these clutch buttons are a common part that wears out and about $4 each it's acheap fix if they need it. your right in thinking theclutch did not g back together correctly as you have to peload the secondary(driven clutch) spring about a 1/3 of a turn while your putting it back together. there should be some resistance when you try to pull the sheeves apart. the holes as you mentioned are a way of turning the clutch for differnt shift out points. i thin he 2/2 is standard set up(can't remember or sure when i had mine apart)
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:20 PM
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The buttons were fine and thanks for watching my back.......
One last thing, should I put antisez on the bushings and spacers of the driven clutch?
 
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:03 PM
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i wouldn't as the belt dust will mix with it and cause biinding issues later on. imo
 
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:56 PM
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Yeah I thought the same thing so I cleaned it off before you answered....Thanks!
 
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:17 AM
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Well I was putting the Trans back together and was tightening the shifter tenisioner hollow bolt and rung it off with just about 15lbs. of force so I ordered a new bolt with a new plastic washer, the old washer was made of aluminum, what is the torgue for this bolt?
 
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:18 PM
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On the new bolts just put a little blue lock tite and torque to about 10 pounds max. OPT
 
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:10 AM
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Just wanted to thank y'all for the help on this ATV.....I got it all back together and it runs prefect.
Here's what all I did to it:
Pulled all the Tupperware and cleaned it.
Pulled the gas tank and flushed it out(bike sat for three yrs. with gas in it)
Pulled the Trans and replaced the Silent Chain.
Replaced the drive belt.
Pulled the Driven clutch,pulled it apart and cleaned it.
Pulled and replaced both sprocket and drive chain.
Replaced all brake pads (F/R) and flushed the brake lines.
Changed the oil and filter
Cleaned and re-oiled the Airfilter
Pulled the Carb and cleaned it.
Replaced the sparkplug.
Adjusted the Valves.
Greased all the fitings.
Battery is bad and won't hold a change for very long so you've got to pull the rope to start it but that's not to bad as it starts on the first or second pull.
OPT YOU ARE A ASSET TO THIS FORUM! Thank You!
 


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