When the armature plate(with the 3 tabs) "lightly" sticks with the power to the coil off,it needs to be replaced! It's magnetized! Voltage on the gray wires to each coil should be on ONLY when the ignition key is on,in gear and the awd button is pushed. This magnetic force pulls the armature plate away from the roll cage allowing the roll cage to freely turn in the hub. Only when the rear wheels slip is when the roll cage cambers up and locks the hubs. If you have 12 volts to either side when the awd system is off,then you need to trace what else is wrong??. I haven't ever seen this happen! Are you sure you're not mistaking the magnetized plate as being pulled by voltage OR have you checked voltage to the strut coils themselves? OPT

 

I am checking voltage right at the plug ins from the coil wires that run up the strut. (A gray and a brown wire for each side.)

When I am running and in gear I get 13 volts DC at the gray wire when AWD switch is off or on.

Not sure if this is normal or an issue, but my AWD switch light comes on when the atv is put into gear so it lights up anytime in gear if AWD switch is on or off.

I thought the AWD switch would light up when switched to AWD on, but it does not work that way. Is this the normal operation?

 

There shouldn't be voltage to the gray wire if the switch is in off position. Check the wiring from the slide switch if you have power to the hub coils with the switch off. Plus could be a shorted out switch itself. You can pull the harness connector and ohm the switch out also.If faulty the throttle control may have to be replaced. It does show to have an updated part # which could mean something on this. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
OPT

 

Yes, I was afraid that would be the case. Another expensive part.

The throttle assembly has continuity from the gray/white wire to the gray wire with the awd switch in on and off position.

From what I can see the gray/white wire provides the voltage to the awd switch and it should only go through to the gray wire when the switch is in the on position.

 

Is there 12 volts on the gray/white wire leading into the throttle housing and has power on the gray wire going out regardless of switch position? If there is constant power going out, then the switch is the problem and the throttle assembly would have to be purchased unless you rigged up some sort of toggle switch. OPT

 

Yes. Ordered parts today from your link. Thank you

 

Back to working on it finally. The right roll cage was bad, the bearings would stick in it. I replaced both armatures and one roll cage, packed the bearings and have it all back together up front.

I also have a new 4wd switch assembly to install since the 4wd was on all of the time.

Don't have the actual Xplorer manual so I went to the Polaris dealer and picked up some fluids and info.

They sold me the Demand Drive Fluid for the front hubs and told me to fill it up to the 3 or 9 o`clock position when the hub fill screw is removed. I seen another Polaris manual that stated 4 o`clock. Does it matter?

They also sold me the Full Synthetic AGL Gearcase Lubricant & Transmission Fluid for the transmission fluid change. They said it holds 16 ounces on this model, but I read 32 ounces somewhere else. Do you know the correct amount?

They told me to use the same Demand Drive Fluid that I am putting in the Hubs in the Front Drive unit, but I am seeing other manuals call for Front Gearcase Oil GL 80-90
Weight Gear Lube. That makes more sense to me. Should I use the same AGL fluid as the transmission here? What is the correct fluid for the front drive unit and quantity?

 

First off I hope you haven't packed the bearings with grease!! The system only uses the Demand Drive hub fluid for everything,bearings,hillards,plates,etc! Just fill the hubs at 12 o'clock slowly until full! This allows fluid to reach all the bearings. Turn hub to 4 o'clock position and drain excess ,but wont hurt to have a little extra in the hubs. Change this fluid every 50 hours! Fill the gear case to the BOTTOM of the fill plug threads with AGL. The front differential takes 80/90 GL5 rated lube since it doesn't have any awd parts in it like the later "centralized" awd systems. There is a 7/16" drain plug at the bottom of the diff and a 9/16" fill plug. Fill to the bottom of the fill plug threads. Should be between 4-5 ounces or so. Also the hub nuts torque to only 12 foot pounds. OPT

 

Well thats good to know. As I mentioned previously I didn't have the manual for this model and the previous owner had replaced the front bearings and seals last year.

When I took the hubs apart, the bearings were greased/packed and there was a small amount of fluid that ran out. Guess I will have to clean them again and put them back together. Atleast it will go fast the second time around. Glad I didn't put any fluid in them yet I guess. Thanks.

 

Grease could have been a contributor to the problem you were having with the awd to begin with.
I've had em brought in before with hubs completely packed with grease and customers wondered why the awd wouldn't work. OPT