I just picked up a 700 twin that I thought just needed a carb cleaning, but the further I have dug into it the more I have found. And of course it has no manual to go with it.
When I got it it starts and idles great, as you gave it gas it pops and cracks and has no power.
I tore the carb down and found it in very clean condition, but someone had been in there before and I know they had messed with the air/fuel mix.
I next checked the plugs and they both are not right they are AC Delco 41-906 (the po was a chevy guy) and the gaps are both different Left bank .055 Right .042.
So as a general rule of tuning the carb where do you start the mixture screw from fully seated (tight) on this model, also what NGK plug does it call for and what gap?
It also has some valve tick going on so does anyone have a link to that procedure.
Thanks

 

Old Polaris Tech I just read a post you made earlier this year about the ignition system in this quad needing to be updated possibly. I know that this thing has been sitting for at least 3 years and the past two owners have not figured out the problem. It only has 816 miles on it so it should not be anything major. I hope!
I am going to go check the spark condition later tonight, what other things should I look for? I would like to see if it has been updated already.
I still need to know the proper plug, gap and where to start with the fuel air mix, yeah I admit I messed with it too.

 

Check all the posts on the early model 600 and 700 carb model ignition problems. The Ducati ignition system is replaced with a Kokusan system which includes a new flywheel,stator,cdi,coil,regulator/rectifier,jumper harness leads,and instructions. Should have been a Polaris recall,but wasn't! The kit ranges from $450-$480 or so and you can check around at different online sources such as Cycle Parts Warehouse,Cheap Cycle Parts,Bike Bandit and sources on EBay. The kit is #2202602 for the 700. This is not an isolated problem! Eventually all the Ducati ignition systems fail. Some run bad,spit back,die when hot,or some have even not been able to restart once you kill the atv.
OPT

 

Crazy we both posted at the same time, once I read your post to someone earlier this year I knew that was the problem. But as a general rule where do you set the air/fuel screw to start tuning (after I order the kit for the update of course)
This good deal on a 700 just went south real quick.

 

Sometimes you inherit other people's problem! Once the kit is installed the atv will run great! Use a base setting on the fuel/air screw of 2 turns out from a lightly seated position.Once the engine is warm,a carb tool or small hands and a small screw driver can fine tune this setting. OPT

 

Cheap Cycle Parts has it for $446.28, but the part number 2202602 says its for 03-04 700's. Since I do not have a title I am going by the plastic hood in front on the handlebars and it says 2002 I can not read the month and day but I can make out the 2002, and the Vin number matches the frame number. Just want to make sure I get the right one.

 

If you have a 700 atv the #2202602 kit is the correct one whether it's a 2002,2003,or early 2004 model (if built before 2/23/03). If you're really curious about info an exact model, the build date,etc, just type your 17 digit vin number here. http://www.purepolaris.com/en-us/Ran...earch-VIN.aspx OPT

 

I plan on ordering the kit in the next few days. In the meantime I need to take care of the top end. I realized after I asked for the valve adjustment procedure that they were hydro. The problem is mine is making a pretty good ticking. Oil looks good and is at correct amount, filter is a polaris but that does not mean the oil is. Had a guy tell me that 500's were bad about the exhaust valves wearing the cam shaft, what about the 700's?

 

700 and 800 engines used oil more than any other engine. Especially the hard driven Razr. I've seen atvs and Razrs low on oil when they've come into the shop. Not everyone does this,but seems like most customers I talked to had to add oil between changes. Again this depends on how you ride,temperature,etc. A lot of people I know just neglected their oil! As far as any cam wear,I didn't have to replace any. Only crankshaft assemblies on a few that threw rods(even with plenty of oil!) and had one broken cam that broke at the journal on the gear driven end. They do make valve train noise and it's just the way they are! If you're not sure on what type oil that's in it,replace it with 0w40 Mobil 1,Amsoil,PS4 Polaris,and I wouldn't hesitate on using Rotella T6 5w40 either! I Never did think the dipsticks were that accurate either. Seems like two quarts always showed over full,but the main thing is check your oil between changes on these engines. Only the early model 500 engines(1996-2000) had cam problems along with the 425 engines before them. OPT

 

Thanks OPT!! Until I get this thing running good I am going to be freaked out by any noise it makes. I just do not want what I thought to be a good deal on a easy fix to turn into to much more of a bad deal.