When I say "bike", I'm talking about quads. I know it's not technically correct, but it's often used around here interchangeable. It is assumed the "bike" is the same type as whatever group, context, etc you are in at the time, is what you are referring too. Sorry for the confusion.

 

When I say bikes I mean motorcycles! As far as quads I always say atvs, force of habit I guess from over the years of working on both A lot of different brands of atvs use the same style "starting clutch" system as well as many motorcycles. OPT

 

x2 on OPT's cover removal suggestion. It also gives you a chance to give everything in there a good look over...and machine familiarization is always a good thing. Bonding.

 

Hello

I am new to the list although I have already had a few
great tips for my Xplorer.

I have a 2003 Predator 500 and have starter / ignition
issues.

The starter solenoid located on the front of the battery clicks
when i hit the starter button with the key on.

Here is what I have tested.
Full power from new battery
12v into the starter solenoid
No power out
The white / red wire going into the solenoid has 12v
This wire comes from the starter button circut on the bars

From what I can deduct from the Polaris sm this is a
Starter solenoid? The manual talks about other ground
circuits is there any way to test this simply?

Thanks again!

 

Sounds like you've done most of the testing. If you have power to the solenoid,same on the left switch,power isn't being sent to starter from the solenoid starter wire,then sounds like the solenoid contacts have melted.Plus the solenoid(magnetic switch) has been updated. They usually do this when they've had problems on parts. Item #10 Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Thanks! Please tell me if I am thinking correctly about
the following;

If there is power coming into the starter solenoid
from both the switch and battery, the issue can only
be the starter solenoid failing to deliver a start signal
to the starter?

If this is the case should I not be able to use the old
jumping the solenoid trick to verify? If so this does
not work. Now I might just not understand some of
the other inner workings of the solenoid.

Thanks again for your help

 

You can simply use a test light or meter to the starter connection itself. If it doesn't show voltage when you hit the start button,just replace the solenoid. Before I ordered the solenoid,I'd make sure the starter itself works also by jumping the solenoid or simply using small battery cables hooked to the battery. Ground to the frame,touch the power lead to the starter connector and see if the starter turns over. If perchance the starter is bad also here's a cheap place to get one or you can check Ebay. DB Electrical - Polaris Outlaw Predator 500 ATV Starter 03 04 05 06 07

 

Okay so I tried to power the starter no go, I then
pulled the stator cover housing and verify the starter
would turn while not under load.

It did spin without issue. So the starter is good. I also
wanted to be 100% sure there was no over arching
motor issue, I spun the crank clockwise to verify
all was good, which it is.

I obv need to verify I haven't gotten things out of whack
value ect wise when I put it all back together?

I don't think that it's a issue, I just wanted to ask.

Thanks

 

One other thing to check out if you haven't already done so is the starter clutch on the Predator. These one way sprag type clutches can go out and cause problems. Item #7. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Hey

So I have actually read this entire thread now and it
looks to be a similar problem to the fellow who started
the thread and was assisted by OPT.

I have the cover off, I can free wheel going backwards
or clockwise. However when the starter button is engaged
the starter simple wont go, it just stalls as if its trying to start
something to large or heavy for it. So we now know that
the starter is good, the solenoid is good and the battery is good.

Am I correct that the point of the starter clutch is to
only engage one way and free wheel the other way?

It's as if the motor is seized and won't allow the starter
to attempt to crank it.

The oddest thing is that when I hit the start button
I get between 6 and 7 volts at the starter side of
Solenoid and it the lead at the starter. Obv this isn't
suppose to be anything less than full battery power?

What's the next step in testing?

Thanks