actually i didn't save any $$$$....because i had none to spare in the first place...

Now what to buy next with that saved money i don't have...LOL

I hope i can ask you some more questions...Next on the list changing the bushings in the rear sway arm....since i'll have the sway arm out i'm assuming
..does it make sense to change the rear shock too? not sure if its still good or bad..but its been on there since 1996...but with my big fat a$$ since 1999.....just saying..ha

 

Bushings are no problem but the rear shock spring is! A lot stiffer than the front springs are! You have to have a good spring compressor to push the spring down enough to remove the retainer plate while holding the bottom of the shock in a vice. This is what I used at the shop,but there may be cheaper ones on Ebay,Amazon,etc. Plus I changed shocks out for customers for about 10 bucks when they brought em in. Check with local cycle shops,especially dirt bike shops,they should have one. http://www.compacc.com/p/Race-Tech-S...FS-RPAodPBQAZQ
OPT

 

Got the other shock installed, this one a little bit more work. For some reason i could not get the strut pushed down enough so i could get my air rachet on the nut to remove the spring. Not sure why...but it was so close, i know the other side was tight to get it on. Anyways i ended up using a wrench instead but i had to clamp on 3 vise grips in order to get the shock from turning...but it worked. i can barely move the front end now...what a difference...THANKS OPT

 

Don't thank me,you're the one that did all the work! Good luck OPT

 

OPT, seems I still have an issue.

Before changing out the shocks, sometimes i could fell a bump in the steering...i took it for another test drive and i felt it a few times....took a look at it this morning and when i grab the front bumper and lift up, I notice at the top of the strut was loose, where it connects to the frame. I can turn the pivot ball, ruber and washer at the top. I thought i must have not tighten it enough...tried that but it was tight. took the nut off to make sure i had the pivot ball on correctly and i did. I haven't removed the lower pivot ball yet to see but i'm pretty certain i put it on correct.

Any ideas why i can't tighten it up enough? Thanks

Sbishop

 

The lower pivot ball only goes one way over the shaft.You either don't have the strut nut tight enough or could have the top pivot plate upside down(recessed side up for the washers,concave side down to engage the lower pivot ball) Just clamp on a pair of vice grips to the upper part of the strut shaft,turn the vice grips until they lock up against the frame and tighten the nut more if you can. OPT

 

looks like i didn't have the spring compressed enought, i was able to turn the lower nut by 1 1/2 turns....I assume the air rachet did the job..i guess not!

Looks good now...except the upper pivot ball is cracked inside..going to pick up a new one today...thanks again!

 

That reason is why I loved this tool. Has a lot of torque,better than any air ratchet,plus once a nut's tight,it's tight!Expensive,but if you work with tools everyday it will pay for itself! Snap on 3 8 Impact Gun Wrench Snap on Brand New Never Used MG31 | eBay
OPT

 

Got the strut all done with new pivot ball. That issue is fix but i still have my orignal problem...i haven't taken it out for a ride since fixing the issue this morning but i still have a clunk noise when i lift up on the front the of bike, on the left side...if i make the right side bounce by lifting it, no noise all is good...if i make the left side bounce by lifting it...i hear a clunk, clunk....the strut is all good....is there any rubber mounts? i'm puzzled now!

 

I've done this on a brand new ones straight out of the crate and have felt the same clunk. It's normally the strut cartridge reaching it's limit and makes a clunk.As long as every things tight,plus no worn a-arm bushings,tie rod ends,or ball joints that could be making any noise,I'd ride it and see how it handles the rough stuff. OPT