You're lucky! If you don't want to buy the clutch tool find a 3/4" fine thread bolt at a hardware store at least about 6 inches long or so. You can use shorter bolt(about 4") to go in the clutch that will actually pop the clutch loose from the force of the 3/4" bolt. http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...psd9423cac.jpg
This is the dimensions of the Polaris clutch puller.

 

What should I be looking for? I haven't got the clutch off but if I turn it by hand you can feel it binding up and crunching, it doesn't do it half as bad if I turn the clutch backwards. Could it be something in the clutch or a bottom end bearing?

 

If you take the belt off and the clutch is hard to turn and locks up or binds,then you have engine problems,not a clutch problem. Could be anything from a seized piston, lower end rod bearing,crank bearings,or a combination of all three. Sounds like it's time to start tearing the engine down. The clutch should be able to turn smoothly all the way around with no interference in either direction. Only thing you should be able to feel is compression resistance when the piston comes up towards the top of the cylinder. Plus you can pull the recoil and see if the flywheel magnets may have shattered causing it to bind up. If it's ok,then you're probably going to need that rod and piston kit. Just the nature of two stroke engines and what can happen.

 

Are all the clutch pullers the same? I see one on amazon for a good price but it don't say what years it's for or if its atv or snowmobile.

 

Their not all the same!Make sure any puller says for Polaris also. The threads are SAE 3/4"-16 pitch

 

I bought a clutch tool to pull the primary, just waiting for it to get here. You also mentioned checking the flywheel to see if any of the magnets shattered...I haven't attempted it yet but was wondering if anything special is needed to get the flywheel off. Thanks again you've been a great help.

 

Not usually necessary to pull the flywheel to see if the magnets have shattered as there usually would be pieces all over the area.Just pull the recoil housing. Turn the flywheel by hand and see if it has the same symptoms as when you you turned the clutch(binding and crunching noise). To pull the flywheel you need a steering wheel puller or a harmonic balancer puller and (3) three to four inch long 8mm by 1.25 pitch bolts (usually not in the puller kits) You can just put a deposit on the tool if you don't want to buy one from Autozone or O'Reilly and get it back when you return it. If the flywheel looks good then it looks like it's time to tear the engine down as the binding and crunching is probably the piston or rod and bearings. You'd need the flywheel puller anyway.

 

Ok my clutch tool is supposed to be here tomorrow. I'm thinking I'm going to start tearing the motor down for a complete rebuild regardless of what it needs. How would I go about pulling the cylinder? I see four bolts around the base but no room to get a socket on them, I'm afraid to strip them out using a wrench. Any tips?

 

Pull the big mounting bolt in the center of the clutch,then thread the puller in the hole,impact gun works the best.Same procedure on all models.If you don't have a manual You Tube has some good vids from carbs to some engine repair.You have to pull the 12mm head bolts ,remove the head,then remove the the (4) 14 mm cylinder nuts and pull the cylinder off. You have to pull the clutches any way to tear the engine down. With the clutch cover and backing plate on it's best to have a "step down" 14mm wrench or just pull the clutches and cover first so you can get at the nuts better. #/watch?v=_L2oBpHcpl0&mode=browse

 

Got my tool, threaded it into the clutch and hit it with the impact and it's not coming off. It's also like 20 degrees here, any tips on getting it off and some tips for getting the cylinder nuts off?