After you get the boot replaced just drive it for a few miles to see if the hub seal seats better and any leaks stop. Sometimes on new stiff rubber seals this is what I've had to do. Don't just let it sit.

 

Looks like I'm going to tackle the boot replacement this weekend. All of the dealers around me are 2-3 weeks backlogged and can't guarantee me it'll get done before May 1st (when we leave for WV).

I've watched a couple of the videos. Can I replace the outer boot (wheel side) w/o removing the drive shaft from the trans? It looks like you can, but all of the videos i see online where people are replacing the boot have the drive shaft totally off the vehicle. Would prefer to not have to deal with added complications of the trans-side of things if I don't have to.

 

You might as well pull the drive shaft because as soon as you try to tap the wheel side cv joint off of the shaft they will usually pop out of the transmission anyway. Plus it's just a lot easier to work on cleaning the cv,installing the boot,etc with it out. When you install it just have the upper a-arm up out of the way,line the splines up on the transmission and have the shaft straight and just give it a sharp tap with a dead blow hammer to seat it.I've done dozens this way.

 

Never should have let you guys talk me into doing this CV boot replacement myself. 'bout ready to run the quad over with my truck!!!!

Right rear outer CV boot needs replaced. I have the A-arms disconnected, hub removed, old boot removed, and now sitting with only the axle still attached to the trans. How the heck do I get the outer CV joint to separate from the axle shaft??? I see that c-clip on the axle and have used snap ring pliers to expand it -- but then what? There's no place for it to go! I tried holding the c-clip open with one hand and tapping a piece of wood laid perpendicular against the inner cage - nothing. How does this thing come off???!!!?!?!?!

I've seen a video or two where it seems the person just left the c-clip on and hammered the CV off the end of the axle using what looked like a big cresent wrench wrapped in towels - is this the best way?

Very frustrated - beer time.

 

Oh yeah I just loved these too! What I had was a flat blade small circlip pliers that I ground down to fit this small clip. Just hold it with the cv down over your work bench or table. Once you open the circlip enough the cv joint will usually slip off on it's own. When you get ready to reinstall it a vice helps. Have the cv splines up,insert the shaft and spread the small clip open enough for the shaft to go down and lock on the circlip. http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...P-RING-PLIERS/ OR this is the one I had that I modified.http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-SRP4-SNAP-RING-PLIERS-MADE-IN-USA-FREE-SHIPPING-/200914590388?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2ec7715ab4&vxp=mtr

 

I only used that trick to get the axle spline out of the rear tranny or front Diff.
I bought the snap ring spreader shown above for the CV your showing.

 

Thanks for the help guys - I got the CV off this morning. It took one person with the spreaders opening the c-clip wide open, and another person tapping it with a 5 lb sludge (wood in between). What a PITA - no idea how 1 person alone could do this!

Next question. CV looks pretty good, and I swabbed out all of the grease and give it a good kerosene/brake cleaner bath. Blew it out w/ an air compressor and let it dry. Just starting now to re-grease, and work on re-installation. The Polaris boot kit didn't come with a new c-clip. The one I pulled out is OK to just reuse it (it looks fine)?

 

Yes,you can reuse it as long as it's not deformed. Make sure it seats properly when you install the cv back on the shaft. I never removed em from the cv joint,just cleaned everything up.

 

Well, installation was a lot easier than removal, that's for sure. It's all back together with the exception of the final torque of the castled nut. The manual I have says spec is 100 ft lbs - is that right? How critical/tight is that tolerance? My torque wrench only goes up to 75 ft lbs. Will need to hit Sears tomorrow and pickup a bigger one if I can't SWAG it. (100 ft lbs == about as tight as I can get it!)

I checked that front hub again today (the one I replaced the sleeve and hub seal on). It's still leaking - seems to be leaking faster now, probably a dozen drips over 2 days. Same place - front of rotor. I haven't been able to ride the bike since doing the work... I may be able to take it up and down the driveway a few times one night this week. Just debating on leaving it for now and heading to H/M as-is (checking the hub fluid level every morning)... or trying to source another hub before the trip. If I pickup a new hub, can it be directly installed as-is, or do I need to change out the bearing, races, etc?

 

Not that critical on rear axle nut torque. In fact most techs just impact them on. Take it on your trip with a bottle of hub fluid and see if the front seal quits leaking after some riding time.. If when you come back the seal is still leaking at the hub, a new hub comes complete with the seal and inner and outer bearing races installed. It's not cheap,about $200,but if it's leaking between the outer part of the seal and the hub then the only thing else you can try is sealant around a new seal and see if it works,or just bite the bullet and get a new hub. This I've had to do a few times on damaged ones.