I have been hearing clicking sounds when using my ATV. I noticed that the chain is very very loose. I doubt this is normal. I have attached photos.

This is not supposed to be this way right? how do I fix it?

Please keep in mind that the ATV is kept on my land, without any electricity or running water close by so I am hoping for a quick and easy fix - if possible of course.

 

Way too loose,can cause some damage to the cases if you don't take up some slack in the chain. Hard to tell from the mud,but looks like a lot of adjustment has already been taken up(is that the tabs on the rear housing towards the rear??) Easiest way to adjust is loosen the two 5/8" nuts on the rear housing and the two rear caliper 1/2" mounting bolts to be able to turn the rear housing. You may be able to stick in a small punch through the sprocket into the housing hole,then push forward on the atv. The housing will turn forward,tightening the chain.Worst case scenario is to use a big pair of channel locks OR pipe wrench to turn the housing(without scarring it up) Have the slack at about 1/2" in the middle of the chain(between the drive gear and rear sprocket)then tighten the bolts and nuts. If there is a lot of side to side play on the chain links or stiff links,it's really time to replace it. Really needs a good wash job and lube the chain up thoroughly with o-ring chain lube!!

 

A lot of words I don't know the meaning off

I will try to find a guide or video with photos from mechanically inclined people as myself...

Do you see those two 5/8 bolts in my photos? Can you possibly mark them with some simple paint software and post. I can try to do what you suggested.

Thank you.

 

One bolt is showing on the rear housing bracket.#25 is the nut. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Plus the caliper bottom mounting bolts need to be loosened. You didn't mention your year model??

 

Something else to take into consideration is the age of the chain. How old is the chain and is it the factory chain or an aftermarket chain? If it has some age to it or is an inexpensive aftermarket chain with some age on it you might want to consider just replacing it with a new chain.

If the chain is fairly new and in good condition and you don't have much room for adjustment you can always remove a few links from it. Most shops will remove links for very cheap, sometimes nothing at all if you have a good customer relationship with them or you can buy one at a very reasonable price from places like Dennis Kirk or Rocky Mountain ATV. Just be sure and clean it up good if you take it to a shop because nobody likes to handle a dirty, greasy chain.

Not sure if you know this or not, but when buying a chain it's best to buy one with the highest tensile strength rating that you can afford. The tensile rating determines how much stress the chain can take before it starts to stretch and ultimately break. When a chain starts to stretch that's a warning sign that it's getting weak and needs to be replaced. I prefer O-ring chains myself and have been using a self lubricating Smart chain from the same company that provides me with my sprockets for past several years with good results.

 

Same bolts, different model. Not the best video out there, but it was a quick find.

 

Good video Scooter,but watching him use hand tools instead of air tools makes my hands hurt.

 

every generation is the same and they don't listen to the previous generation. after they got as many scars as we do due to busted knuckles from the hospital ends of those wrenches, they'll figure out what air tools are and where to buy'em and when to use'em! wished i would've listened to my dad. now arthur, i mean arthritis, comes and visits me often. i wished my kids would listen to me, but i think they're going down the same road i went down. the school of hard knocks. breaks my heart. .

 

It is 2005. I will be back later to check out the posts and video. Thanks for the help. What tools I need? (no electricity)

 

Sounds like you're gonna need knuckle busting wrenches as Jaster94 mentioned then. I'd take a ratchet or breaker bar (3/8 or 1/2 inch) 5/8 socket,1/2 socket, 5/8 box end wrench,big Channel locks or pipe wrench. Plus a small punch if you can insert it into the sprocket opening into the axle housing. Then all you have to do is push forward and the housing will turn and not need the pliers.Not all sprockets are lined up to do this though. Plus maybe some band aids for any cuts and a trailer to haul that muddy thing to a car wash