First big shout out to OPT and tekrsq for helping me in the past post.

Ok, I received my parts yesterday like a kid in a candy store I couldn't wait to fix the little 90! Here is the list!

Press the starter button--> Would only hear the starter motor spin
Kick start--> wouldn't bounce back
Rattle behind the clutch cover--> Needed to open her up!

Ok took off the clutch cover and found that there was a lot of belt dust covering the kickstart gears and starter gear, gumming up everything. I took apart the kick start assembly (bad idea!) and cleanded everything. I ordered a new kick start pinion, and one way gear. They looked a little worn, figured they could be replaced. I took off the variator and shook it, sounded like the rattle I was hearing. Ordered new roller weights. Behind the variator was the one way clutch, and at the bottom of the clutch cavity was the sheared off screw heads! Order a new (redesigned) one way clutch.

The rebuild

New parts arrived! I first cleaned all the starter, and kick start gears. Then used a lighter lube "Liquid Wrench Chain Lube" for all the components. I tackled putting the kick stater assembly back together, let me say it flat out sucks!!! That spring is under a lot of tension, it took me a good 20min to wind the spring back. With the kick start cleaned, lubed and put back together. I then proceeded to primary assembly. I cleaned out the variator and replaced all the weights, facing the same direction. Then proceeded to install everything back in order, and torqued down to 29.ftlbs. I tested the starter before putting the clutch cover back on. Works great!!! Put the clutch cover back on with a new gasket. Tested out the kick starter, PERFECT!!!!

Issue....

When I went to start it, it took closing the choke all the way, and giving it gas to start, while pressing the starter button for 10sec. I had to keep the throttle pressed to keep it going, or it dies. After doing some reading I have read three things, vapor lock, compression, and carb. I have cleaned out the carb twice already, once a really good first cleaning, and second for a stuck float. I just ordered a new carb and fuel filter, it's only $33 figured not worth the hassell. Check list when I get home; check the vent tube for kinks, and that gas is getting to the carb. I have no way to test the compression. Let me say that after cleaning out the carb the first time I had it fire up after two kick starts.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B73h...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B73h...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B73h...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B73h...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B73h...it?usp=sharing

 

Make sure you don't have too much throttle slack or the etc contacts will touch and die when the throttle is released. Hold your thumb over the air box inlet tube and then try to crank it. This allows more fuel as the vacuum on these engines are pretty weak. After the initial crank,should crank again with no problem IF compression is at least 115 psi according to the manual. Hard to get a compression tester in the plug hole because of the frame,but a small adapter and then a compression hose is easier to use.One unprofessional way to kinda tell on compression is to block the hole with your thumb and see if it has a decent amount of pressure against it when you hit the start button.. Job looks good! I can see the slots they made on the screw holes on the new one.

 

Thanks for the reply OPT!
Where is the air box inlet tube? I would assume you are not talking about the intake in the air box?
Agree, the one way clutch looks a lot better, bigger screws with added slots.

 

Yes the air box tube that goes up under the front fender. Just block off the opening with your thumb. We had an "in house" bulletin from Polaris on this some years back on people that complained on cold starting problems.Once it starts it's usually good to go all day,you can kill it and restart easily. Even had to do this on the later manual choke models also along with the crappy electric chokes equipped ones.

 

Ok, so it is part "0453331 Duct, Inlet" that goes into the clutch cover?
I have a manual choke
You mentioned etc contacts, not sure if I know what that is.

 

Sorry went brain dead again!Clutches are the same ,but was thinking about the 2 stroke,not your 4 stroke on the air box!. Make sure you have 1/8" slack at the thumb throttle,plus if you haven't checked valve clearance the intake and exhaust set at .002 clearance. Plus don't know if you have a manual,but here's a free pdf for the 2009 youth model 4 strokes which are the same engine and basically everything else. http://www.partshark.com/custompage3.asp?pg=polaris

 

I'm unsure if I can adjust the thumb throttle, I think it only has a governer screw. I will have to check. I wonder if it might be the set screw on the carb?

 

The throttle cable adjuster is just down from the throttle housing on the cable itself. The governor screw is independent of this.It just allows how much throttle and can be backed out as needed when the kids can handle more speed. If you have between 1/16" -1/8" clearance on the thumb lever as far as slack it's not necessary to adjust it. Valve clearance I would check as if either valve is too tight it could affect starting and running correctly.

 

We have used the governor screw on our other quads. I will have to check the throttle slack and the valvle clearance. Thx!

 

Ok, went home and I forgot to put the battery on the charger, ARGH!!! I only had a few cranks of the starter, and really didn't want to get into a kick start marathon! After checking the throttle, tank vent tube, I tried starting the engine and after a few attempts the battery was dead. I messed around with the ignition coil, the tie wrap is super tight going to the chassis. I wiggled it around a little and gave it a few kick starts (that works flawless now!) and it started!!!! Ran a little rough, I still haven't burned through the SeaFoam. I know there is a lot of carbon in the engine, this machine was never properly maintained by the previous owner. I let the engine warm up for about 20min almost fully choked, then I reduced the choke almost all the open and it was idling. I let the atv sit and cool off for two hours, went back to the garage and kick started it and it fired right up. Ignition coil is now on order! Friggin idiots and their over tightening of tie wraps...