So i have done some investigating. When the key switch is in the on position, the circuit breaker clickes every minute or two, and power does not go through on both sides. when it clickes my test light flashes real dim for a split second and goes out. then it will click again. when the key is in the off position, i have constant power on both sides of the circuit breaker and I have power all the way up to a little box mounted in front of the bars, under the oil tank. I do not have any power to the kill switch at all.

 

This is a thermal circuit breaker designed to cut off and on if there is a problem OR can start cutting power itself when going out. If you haven't replaced this yet,I'd do so just as a process of elimination. This 20 amp breaker is available at most auto stores cheap.May not be the end problem,but the circuit breaker should have constant power. Could be the switch it self is shorting out throwing the breaker. I'd change the $5 breaker first.

 

Well, the problem is solved. I found a huge wad of electrical take covering something up by the key switch. I figured what the heck and unwrapped the mile long piece of tape, well apparently the po had to replace the connector to the key switch, and didn't even bother to splice the wires together correctly, he just twisted the wires together and called it good. well they were all shorting out on each other. I properly spliced the wires together and electrical system works great. Thanks for all of the help. It really helped me out! this forum is great! now on for the top end...

 

Probably what was tripping the breaker. Glad you found the problem..

 

I have a few more questions, if you don't mind helping me out. I am doing the top end, I have read some of your posts in other threads saying to do the bottom end also, what all does that include? Also my piston was scored pretty bad I was only getting 68lbs compression, so I am going to have the cylinder bored. I have heard that when you bore out a 2 stroke, that the cylinder walls need to be coated with something of some sort. Have you heard of that before? Im not finding much on this forum or google about it. Thanks again.

 

The 250 is not a plated cylinder,but a cast iron bore and can be bored out up to 2mm oversize from standard dimensions for over size pistons. You take a chance on just doing a top end on 14 year old machine if the rod kit,crank bearings and seal aren't replaced,EVEN if the rod appears to have no noticeable up and down slack and the crank bearings feel smooth when you turn the rod around in the engine case after you remove the piston. The choice is yours,but if a rod bearing or crank bearing does fail,it can tear up a new high $$ piston and bore job. Hot Rods are fairly cheap,used them quite often.Crank bearing can be purchased anywhere just from the "universal" number on them, and seals are cheap. The main expense is having the rod kit installed and cylinder bored if you don't have the equipment to do so.Plus a cheap pdf or hardcover manual will help. http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...0All%20Models/ Hot Rods, Inc. Product Search Engine For All Products - Wiseco Piston Inc.

 

Ok, thanks for all of the info! I will let you know how it turns out.

 

Well I got it running, seems to run great. but one thing concerns me, when I hit the kill switch, it does not shut off, the lights shut off, but it stays running. Any thoughts about what might cause this? and also there are 3 clearish tubes coming off of the carb, when I got the atv they were all unhooked. I cannot for the life of me figure out where they go. Does anyone know where they go?

 

Check that the black wire from the cdi is hooked up. This is the main kill wire that ties into the ignition and emergency kill switch. On the tubes,just have one tube at the bottom of the carb for overflow,both upper outlets from the carb are just atmospheric vents. You can just run two separate tubes,vent up under the fuel tank and zip tie them to the throttle or choke cable.

 

sorry its been a while since I have posted, the kill switch is working now, the problem was up on the bars where the wires plug into the plastic box that has all the switches in it. I could push the wires in by hand and hold them and the kill switch would work, I let off the pressure and it would not work. Just a loose connection, one zip tie later and works perfect!