Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

Ready to junk Predator 50 !!

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  #11  
Old 06-08-2013 | 05:15 PM
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Thx !!!
 
  #12  
Old 06-09-2013 | 01:05 PM
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Srappydog says his parts don't fit Polaris machines, but maximumrpm has some.
 
  #13  
Old 06-15-2013 | 06:42 AM
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Finally got the crank in yesterday. 1 question before I put this thing back together. Does it matter which side the oil hole for the wrist pin is on? The old rod has the oil hole on the top side of the rod, and the new rod has it on the bottom side of the rod. Is this an issue ?
 
  #14  
Old 06-15-2013 | 06:47 AM
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No,doesn't matter. Oil is atomized in the fuel mixture and will find it's way in to lubricate the upper bearing and piston pin.
 
  #15  
Old 06-27-2013 | 06:01 PM
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Got this thing back together, and it's still on the verge of going in the river.

After reassembly, it fired up first spin. Ran for exactly 4 minutes, and developed a "rattle" on the stator side of the engine that changes with rpm. Also, it runs for exactly 17 minutes, then shuts down until cools down for about 30 minutes. This is like clock work, no matter how many times I restart it.

I thought it might be the stator (although this was a brand new stator), so I just got another new one, and installed it. Same damn noise !!!!! With the exception of the noise and the cutting off, this things runs awesome.

Keep in mind, this things has been totally rebuilt...new piston, head, crank, crank bearings, rod, stator, carb, and cdi.

OPT-- What do you use to re-install the flywheel? I needed the puller to originally remove it, but now when I remove the nut, it easily slides off...even when torqued to spec. Shouldn't it slide up tight on the end of the crank when it's torqued down ?
 
  #16  
Old 06-27-2013 | 06:11 PM
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The flywheel should tighten up on the tapered shaft when you align the woodruff key and tighten the nut. Any amount of pressure on the nut should make it to where you would have to use a puller again to remove the flywheel.Sounds like Maximum rpm may have sent you the wrong diameter crank shaft,designed for a different machine. The flywheel should not just slide off..
 
  #17  
Old 06-27-2013 | 06:27 PM
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Great.

Any idea on the noise or shutting off ?
 
  #18  
Old 06-27-2013 | 06:49 PM
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I'd just be '"guesstimating" on the noise other than the flywheel itself is causing the noise(throwing the crank out of balance) or the piston even though new may have too much clearance in the cylinder and loosing compression when hot and dies, or the rod stroke may be a tad longer than the original one had,BUT the piston would be either hitting the top of the head or kissing the spark plug a little? That's why I've been leery of some of these aftermarket parts other than the oem Polaris parts.. Stators,cranks,electronics,etc.
 
  #19  
Old 06-27-2013 | 07:08 PM
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Compression is 130 both hot and cold...checked it many times.

I wondered if the flywheel was the noise, but why would it run fine (no noise) for several minutes, then develop the noise ? Also, the piston, cylinder, crank and rod are OEM Polaris parts. I didn't get the Maximum RPM parts. The crank bearings, and stators are aftermarket, but had good ratings.

I don't see any indication on the piston it's hitting the spark plug.
 
  #20  
Old 06-27-2013 | 07:27 PM
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But the main thing is that the flywheel slides off the crank without having to use a puller!It should be very snug! Either the crank is wrong or somethings up with the flywheel?? If it's loose on the crank shaft end,it could be causing a strain on the bearing and running out of true? .
 


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