Ready to junk Predator 50 !!
#13
#15
Got this thing back together, and it's still on the verge of going in the river.
After reassembly, it fired up first spin. Ran for exactly 4 minutes, and developed a "rattle" on the stator side of the engine that changes with rpm. Also, it runs for exactly 17 minutes, then shuts down until cools down for about 30 minutes. This is like clock work, no matter how many times I restart it.
I thought it might be the stator (although this was a brand new stator), so I just got another new one, and installed it. Same damn noise !!!!! With the exception of the noise and the cutting off, this things runs awesome.
Keep in mind, this things has been totally rebuilt...new piston, head, crank, crank bearings, rod, stator, carb, and cdi.
OPT-- What do you use to re-install the flywheel? I needed the puller to originally remove it, but now when I remove the nut, it easily slides off...even when torqued to spec. Shouldn't it slide up tight on the end of the crank when it's torqued down ?
After reassembly, it fired up first spin. Ran for exactly 4 minutes, and developed a "rattle" on the stator side of the engine that changes with rpm. Also, it runs for exactly 17 minutes, then shuts down until cools down for about 30 minutes. This is like clock work, no matter how many times I restart it.
I thought it might be the stator (although this was a brand new stator), so I just got another new one, and installed it. Same damn noise !!!!! With the exception of the noise and the cutting off, this things runs awesome.
Keep in mind, this things has been totally rebuilt...new piston, head, crank, crank bearings, rod, stator, carb, and cdi.
OPT-- What do you use to re-install the flywheel? I needed the puller to originally remove it, but now when I remove the nut, it easily slides off...even when torqued to spec. Shouldn't it slide up tight on the end of the crank when it's torqued down ?
#16
The flywheel should tighten up on the tapered shaft when you align the woodruff key and tighten the nut. Any amount of pressure on the nut should make it to where you would have to use a puller again to remove the flywheel.Sounds like Maximum rpm may have sent you the wrong diameter crank shaft,designed for a different machine. The flywheel should not just slide off..
#18
I'd just be '"guesstimating" on the noise other than the flywheel itself is causing the noise(throwing the crank out of balance) or the piston even though new may have too much clearance in the cylinder and loosing compression when hot and dies, or the rod stroke may be a tad longer than the original one had,BUT the piston would be either hitting the top of the head or kissing the spark plug a little? That's why I've been leery of some of these aftermarket parts other than the oem Polaris parts.. Stators,cranks,electronics,etc.
#19
Compression is 130 both hot and cold...checked it many times.
I wondered if the flywheel was the noise, but why would it run fine (no noise) for several minutes, then develop the noise ? Also, the piston, cylinder, crank and rod are OEM Polaris parts. I didn't get the Maximum RPM parts. The crank bearings, and stators are aftermarket, but had good ratings.
I don't see any indication on the piston it's hitting the spark plug.
I wondered if the flywheel was the noise, but why would it run fine (no noise) for several minutes, then develop the noise ? Also, the piston, cylinder, crank and rod are OEM Polaris parts. I didn't get the Maximum RPM parts. The crank bearings, and stators are aftermarket, but had good ratings.
I don't see any indication on the piston it's hitting the spark plug.
#20