Yes it needs to be clean.Just coat the side of the fuel tube"lightly" with epoxy and let it build up outside when you push it down and hold it in place for a few seconds. In a couple minutes it will harden. Just loosen the two 5/8" nuts on the rear housing. Sprocket should have a hole in it to where you can insert a pin punch through it into the carrier slot,then push forward to tighten the chain.The rear housing will turn forward. Stop when you get to about 3/8" to 1/2" slack in the middle of the chain,then tighten the rear housing bolts. You don't collapse the rear shock on any model after 2006 because it's an eccentric drive system. That is the transmission sprocket is at the same level as the swing arm and compression doesn't affect the chain as much. You need a good manual. Here's a cheap pdf manual. It's for a 2002,but basically the same machine.2002 Polaris Xplorer Service Manual PDF Download

 

"You don't collapse the rear shock on any model after 2006 because it's an eccentric drive system"
Mine is a 2001?

I just downloaded this one (before your recommendation), its a 2000 xplorer, should this work?2000 POLARIS XPLORER 250 4X4 ATV REPAIR MANUAL

What do I need a manual for when I have you :-). Thanks again

 

Excuse me! 1996 not 2006 on the eccentric drive system. I'm allowed to make a mistake,because I'm old! 2000 Explorer manual is fine as all the 250 Explorers were basically the same other than different decals,etc. I won't be around forever.The manual will outlast me

 

Got the chain adjusted. Could not find pin punch hole anywhere but the housing was easy to turn with Chanel locks. Thanks for the help

 

Planning on working on the carb tomorrow. I got it off and am gonna tear it apart, clean and rebuild. My question is; what is the recommended starting point (seat, then how many tuns out ) for the idle and the jets when i put it back together. I cant find this info in the workshop manual. Thanks.

 

The air/fuel mixture screw is normally from 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from a lightly seated position. The big knurled idle screw you just adjust to a good even idle. See if these videos help on the Mikuni carb.

 

All looking good. Back to those vent lines. Looking at the manual it has upper most vent line going up and out to the frame and the 2 lower vent lines connecting at a T, then a one way check valve and hanging low ( there was no lowest vent line attached when I took it out) I guess to drain overflow gas. Do I need the T and check valve? Can I just run a foot of vent line off each? Thanks

Also. The needle in the carb appeared to be stainless and in perfect condition. The needle in the rebuild kit appeared to be brass. I replaced everything that came in the Moose kit except the needle cause it was clean as a whistle and had no markings. Should I have replaced the needle?

 

Throw the "t' and the check valve away!Most of the time they fall off anyway. Just run two separate vents on the upper carb outlets and route them up the throttle/choke cable and tucked under the fuel tank.zip tie em to the cables. Run a separate tube for the drain/overflow at the bottom of the carb.
If you're talking about the carb slide needle,this is up to you as to change it or not,but it's hard to measure any wear on the old slide needle just by looking at it.

 

The jet needle

 

Same thing as the slide needle as I call it. Some people get confused when you say jet needle and also needle jet which are two different things but one goes in the other...Again you you don't have to change it,but see how it runs before you chunk it or misplace it..