Carb is installed. Fired right up. Idled good. Runs good.
I put the air screw and idle screw where they were before the rebuild; each was 1.5 turns out from a light seat.
Now, I have worked on chainsaws and know its easy to tell if you are leaning out or if its getting too much gas. How the heck do you tell on an ATV? Just want to make sure I have the air screw adjusted properly. Or should I just assume because its running good and using ...........oh wait, this ain't mix gas. So either way the carb is getting oil from the pump so as long as its running good there should be no more adjustments necessary??? But it's still a mixture hitting the jug which can have either too much gas or too little, but either way its getting oil. Now I'm rambling but I think you get the point. Thanks.

 

The air/fuel screw is less sensitive than a fuel/air screw on a four stroke. If it idles fine,takes off without bogging or hesitation,then leave it at 1 1/2 turns out. Turning the mixture screw in shuts down the air and makes the mixture richer. Turning out the screw allows more air to mix with the fuel,leaning the idle mixture. 1 1/2 to 2 turns out are what most 2 strokes end up at. After it runs awhile and breaks in you may have to adjust the big idle screw now and then if it starts idling too low. Good luck..

 

Thanks for all your help; very much appreciated.

 

What about tie rod ends? I just received my replacement tie rod ends today and am gonna work on it tomorrow. I bought two sets for future use. Anyway, I have one bad end; should I replace both on that tie rod or just the bad end?
At tips?
I know I have to get it the same as what's on it, would that be with the rod end pushed against the inside of the or outside?

 

Just me but I'd replace both on the same shaft. It's easy to align a front end. Just have a straight 1x4 or better yet a metal 2x4 stud like we kept at the shop.Best if you have someone hold the bars straight. Just place the stud against the front and rear tire. First adjust to where you have the same distance at the back of the front tire versus the front of the tire with the stud flush against the rear tire.Then adjust the tie rod end to where you have about 3/8" toe out in the very front.Then tighten the lock nut.No strings or chalk lines that you to have to mess with.

 

I ended up changing all 4; once I replaced the really bad side I realized the other was a bit sloppy also.
I bottomed out the ends on each rod and got about 1/8 toe out on each side; not sure if the wrong rods are on this thing or what?
How tight should I tighten the bolts? Can you break the ends with over-tightening?

 

Hand tight,unless you have a crows foot adapter for a torque wrench for tie rod end lock nuts which most people don't have and I never messed with. Just use common sense on tightening bolts and nuts.If you're not the original owner possible the shafts could have been changed? The only way for sure would be to order new shafts for your year model to compare lengths. Just see how it drives and if it pulls to one side or the other when you let go of the bars at a slow speed.If it does,recheck/adjust the alignment again. If the atv tracks straight and true with the handle bars straight, then call it a job well done! Replacement tie rod ends have changed over the years on this also. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...2001&fveh=5538

 

I picked up 2001 250 Polaris xplorer 4x4 runs good but when put into gear it locks up and don't move can you help with this problem