Look back on your manual under the engine bottom end,describes the oil relief valve,spring and plunger and spring measurement. If this one way valve opening is stopped up from metal shavings or isn't operating properly,then yes oil flow can be interrupted. Plus did you clean the oil pump screen along with the internal rotors since there was probably metal shavings from the engine damage? Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus looking at the breakdown on the engine cases,the one way valve(#15) has been updated to a new part number. Don't know if this would have any effect on it. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1999&fveh=5486

 

thanks for the help OPT.
I finally got the new valve today and a new spring from the dealer. The only difference from the old to new valve is the new one is a composite material instead of the old metal design. Once in the machine i primed the oil and made sure it was flowing down by the cam sprocket cover, put the plug back in and fired her up. there was still the rattle sound, but this is supposedly normal for these engines? as i would take the throttle up i could hear the oil pump whirling away, kinda louder than i would expect. when i had the engine apart i did clean the pump, but didn't notice damage. as i read somewhere else, i clamped the oil return to tank hose and after a few seconds this pressure completely silenced the ticking/nocking noise.
the next problem: still doesn't have the mid to high end power.
when i rode it i slowly accelerated and decelerated, constantly varying my speed. but as i approached mid throttle, i felt all the power die off. nothing. even bliping at 3/4-full does nothing. There was some improvement in the range that it will run in, but back to the same original problem, lack of power.
anybody have a similar year machine around northern IL to try different electrical components on it? haha
Please help, i truly appreciate any help.

 

this is the caltric stator, only a few years on it....but i would think the problem lies in electrical or maybe the carb.....

 

Check the stator resistance specs listed in your manual. Also pull the black kill wire from the cdi and see if it has any effect on running.If the stator,pulse coil,ignition coil check out,then possibly still could be a carb problem if you're sure the clutches/belt have been eliminated. Plus on this model the speed limiter is built into the speedo housing,if shorting out it could be a problem. Several things to check out and eliminate.

 

i remember checking disconecting the black wire from the cdi, and it had no effect.
i also tried the old spedometer, and the bike would run fine without it at full throttle, just no display, and that also had no effect.

ill have to check things out when i get home from school

 

I tested the resistances on the stator again.
Green and black ( book 446) 453
Green and red (book 1.6) 4
White and red (book 97) 107
for the readings that should be infinity, no change in display of the meter (digital)

Went to check the stator output and got nothing, the multimeter flashes some numbers as i pull the recoil starter, but then displays nothing once it is running. the wires were hot. in the picture i posted the one coil is black, new ones are white and the other is a tan color, is this an issue?

After I started the bike, I pulled the black ground wire from the cdi box. And it continued to run. It would not turn off from the switch or the key like it always has, only the gauges would shut off, until I reconnected the black ground wire.

Where do I go from here?

 

Resistance shows within specs. The black wire from the cdi is the main kill wire that ties into the ignition switch and left control switch emergency cut off.The engine can't be turned off with out having this wire connected! If it's still limiting while driving,pull the speedo plug and if if does better the problem is probably the limiter built into the speedo. Also try jumping the Grey/Orange and the Grey/White wires to each other from the left control switch(over ride) and see if this helps while the speedo is still plugged in. Look at your schematic and you can trace the Gray/Orange going from the speedo to the over ride button. If you have full power,it's possible that you wont have to replace the speedo.That is,IF you've eliminated any carb,fuel delivery or clutch problems mentioned a earlier.

 

alright, i was under the impression that when the black wire was pulled the bike should shut down.

so i can have the plug out of the overide switch, and connect the gray/white, then try to run it? same thing for gray/orange.

just want to make sure im not gona fry something!

thanks again

 

Just make a jumper wire to tie both of these wires together! Plus you can try jumping the Grey/orange wire at the speedo connector to a ground (brown) wire and see if you can bypass the limiter. All you're trying to do is trying to bypass the limiter to allow full power while keeping the speedo intact. If this doesn't work,then you may have to get a new speedo.

 

so i do this with the plug(s) unpluged? or pluged in and i have to cut the wires jump them?