I hit a large stump over the weekend and did some damage to the right front tire, control arm, axle, and ball joint.

I have someone that said they can put the axle back together for me, I just need to remove it from the ATV and bring it to them. The axle and boot are still connected to the wheel, but the axle broke out of the inner boot and the boot ripped. All of the bearing still seem to be intact. I was told that a snap ring basically holds these in place and that I should be able to pry them off on both sides. Although, I was told to use two pry bars and to supply even pressure as I'm trying to pop them off.

I wanted to make sure this was the case before I started trying to pop them off and potentially doing more damage.

The ball joint and a-bar (or control bar) look easy enough to fix, it's just a matter of getting the axle repaired.

Any advice on this?

I'm also seeing some axles for sale that seem to be pretty reasonably priced. Maybe this would be the better route to go. Any suggestions on best online sites to purchase an axle, and exactly how hard is it to pull the old axle and just replace the whole thing with a new one. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Polaris-500-Sportsman-HO-4X4-Front-Right-Passenger-Side-ATV-Axles-UG-/151080142420?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D170938873086%26ps%3D54) this is for an HO version, I wonder if they are the same axle for my sportsman 800 EFI

 

There was an 850 engine in 06?

 

Drive shafts use the same number (1332422) on the 2006 500 and 800. If there's nothing to grab a hold of on the joint, pry bars will work. Might be best to use a little PB Blaster and possibly heat to help along with having a friend on the other pry bar. Also you can "rent" slide hammers that would be easier from most major auto stores for just a deposit,money returned when you bring the tool back. Yes it does have a snap ring on the end of the shaft going into the differential.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Saw the same thing,then saw an 800 at the bottom of the post

 

Sorry guys.. My mistake, it's an 800

 

I've gotten all the new parts in except the a-arm. I played hell getting the old axle off. I rented a slide hammer as you suggested, but in the end it just took patience with two pry bars.

The one thing I'm having problems with now is removing the remainder of the old ball joint. When the a-arm bent, the pin in the ball joint sheared off.

I removed the plate that holds the ball joint in place but the cylindrical housing of the old ball joint does not want to slide out. I've tried greasing the joint, but this doesn't help at all. There is a small lip that I can grab hold of with vice grips, but no abount of twisting or banging will move it. Any advice of other things I might be able to try to remove the old pieces of the ball joint?

I also wanted to ask about the screws that held the cover plate in place for the ball joint. Those screws looked like they had some type of thread lock applied to them and I was wondering if there was any type that is prefered for this application.


When I'm putting everything back together, is there a recommended order that will make things easier? I'm thinking the a-arm first, ball joint and then slide the axle into place. Although, it looks like I might have a hard time getting everything lined up properly with the springs on the strut fully extended.

Since the one tire on the right front was completely destroyed in the accident, and the rest of the tires are pretty worn, I'm putting 4 new tires on (I'm taking them to the shop to have them mounted tomorrow).

 

I had a ball joint puller and installer at the shop which made it an easy job. For the average guy you have to heat the strut up pretty hot,use vice grips and knock the ball joint out. If the joint pulls out if the socket(as many worn out ones do) guys have done different things from using small slide hammers,vice grips, to spot welding bolts to be able to pull the ball joint housing out. Find a large enough socket to seat the joint. Use blue lock tite on the three retainer plate screws.Install the new ball joint first,pull out on the strut to be able to slip in the drive shaft,then attach the a arm.

 

The ball joint has pulled out of the socket in my case so I guess I have my work cut out for me. Ill just keep at it and try heat to see of that helps.

When putting the axle back in, should I grease or lubricate the spindles in any way or just push them in dry? In your experience is it better to start at the wheel side first or does it really matter?

 

Use anti seize if you have it,if not grease up the splines. Seat drive shaft first into the gear case then work to the wheel side.

 

[QUOTE=old polaris tech;3203926]I had a ball joint puller and installer at the shop which made it an easy job. For the average guy you have to heat the strut up pretty hot,use vice grips and knock the ball joint out. If the joint pulls out if the socket(as many worn out ones do) guys have done different things from using small slide hammers,vice grips, to spot welding bolts to be able to pull the ball joint housing out. Find a large enough socket to seat the joint. Use blue lock tite on the three retainer plate screws.Install the new ball joint first,pull out on the strut to be able to slip in the drive shaft,then attach the a arm.[/QUOTE

Applied a torch to it for about 5 minutes and clamped in the vice grips and it slid out without any issues.

Ill be trying to put everything's back together today. ]