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97xplorer Starter issue

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Old 12-09-2013, 05:30 PM
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Default 97xplorer Starter issue

1997 Xplorer 400

Put a new battery on the bike this last weekend. Started just fine first couple of times. After that solenoid just clicked once with each push of the start button. Pull started it and rode. Next time starter worked. Next morning solenoid click. Pull started again. Rode and had to pull start next couple of times. Then, the starter started working again. 10 or more times in a row. After that nothing, solenoid clicking again...

I metered the solenoid and have 12 volts coming through. When I push the start button the solenoid clicks once (I assuming pulling in cause that is when I see the meter showing 12 volts).

FYI... The bike is clean and well kept. I don't sink it in water ever. Just a weekend hunting property vehicle.

What are the next steps? Pull the starter and check it out?

Thanks,

Kurt
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:39 PM
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Just make sure the solenoid is transfering power even when it's clicking to the starter wire. You can mess with taking a starter apart,new brush kit if needed and it may last,but If I was going to all the trouble getting to the starter at the bottom of the engine I'd replace it and check the starter bendix out also. May be to your advantage to replace both as they're fairly cheap here.DB Electrical - 400
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:24 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I tested the "other" side of the solenoid with a meter and it is showing 12 volts. Are there any additional tests to validate the transfer of power?

I guess I should go ahead and pull the starter, look at it before I order a new one? Or if the solenoid is showing 12 volts then the starter is definitely bad? I see starter bendix combos on the website you sent for $59 and for $111. I plan to keep the bike forever. I'll change the bendix while I'm at it. Is it worth the money for the "gold"?

Thanks again for your help with my previous issue as well!
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:46 PM
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Starters on the 250,300 and 400 are the worst because they're on the bottom of the engine.Hard to seal the recoil area completely to keep mud,dirt out of starters. "Supposedly" the gold series have stronger windings,plus they do have a 2 year warranty. Once you replace a starter like this,you don't want to have to do another one for awhile.. A lot more involved than replacing a 4 stroke starter.
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:56 AM
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Plus after the starter/bendix is replaced,seal the recoil cover and also rope handle in with some good rtv sealant to help stop water entry.
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:34 PM
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Just to make sure I jumped out the solenoid. Connected positive side of battery directly to the side of the solenoid that has the starter. Nothing.

Pulled the foot plates from both sides. Looking at it. My understanding from what I have read is that I can pull the recoil cover and there are starter bolts in there. I was looking at the other end of the starter and I can see one bolt. Is there more than one? If so not sure I can get to it... Assuming that once the starter is loose that it will drop through the frame from the bottom. Any guidance on this would be appreciated.
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:51 PM
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This like I said is a hard starter to replace.Remove the bottom skid plate.You can tip it on it's rear end and fight the starter bracket bolts,especially the rear one,but only took once for me on this to do it another way. Yes I had a lift and air tools and this job was a lot less complicated by removing the clutch cover,clutches and backing plate which for me only took a few minutes compared to fighting that bracket. Once these are out of the way the starter bracket stares you in the face and very easy to remove. Plus yes you have to remove the recoil to get to the two bolts holding the starter to the engine case. You then pull both the starter and bendix out as an assembly away from the flywheel.
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:11 PM
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Got it off. Not sure I can get that top bolt back on. Read on here that someone else left that top bolt off when the put their new one on and never had an issue. Is that OK? Think I can leave that bolt off? That would make it much less trouble.

Once I got it off I hit it with a freshly charged car battery. I hit it a couple of times and it seemed to jolt loose and run. Did it a couple more times and it stopped working again. Who knows. Time to order a new one! The whole deal is actually quite clean. I don't ride in water. The bendix looks like new. I think I'm going to pass on replacing it.

To go at it the other way you have to have special tools, correct? At least a clutch puller? I've replaced the belt before but I've never pulled the clutch.

I'll say it again. I Appreciate the help!
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:18 PM
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Not a real mechanic. Can you recommend a RTV Sealant?
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:35 PM
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Front clutch pullers are every where now and fairly cheap. You can even go to a hardware store and get a 3/4" fine thread bolt about 6-8 inches long that would work. The rear clutch just pulls off.Once you get the clutches and backing plate off you'll see how easy. Yes some have left the rear bolt off the bracket,BUT I couldn't do that at the shop,plus I didn't want to do things half way. Any good brand of rtv is ok ,BUT don't use RED! This is a sure sign of an amateur
 


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