Ok old polaris tech... Removed the limiter black wire..still the same issue.. You think the clutch is getting bad and when it's getting hot it's making this issue? I don't really want to buy one if I'm not really sure that's the issue.

 

If it's idling higher in neutral,lower idle in forward and reverse and stalling out,the only way to tell if it's a clutch problem is to pull the clutch cover and see where the belt rides while it's running in neutral. Give it some gas and see if the belt drifts over. If it's touching the inside of the front clutch and not centered on the one way this could be causing the problem.Plus the one way fiber and brass washer could be worn allowing the one way to move which can cause the belt to move also.

 

Is there anyway to post a video of what it's doing when it gets hot old polaris tech?or do you have a email I can send you the videos too?

 

Best if you could post a video. Not any kind of geek by any means,but you should be able to post a video on You Tube and post it here.Others could help you on this better than I can.. Maybe a simpler way?

 

Ok old polaris tech, I did find out that after it warms up it does creep when put into forward or reverse. That's when it's dying bc I use the brake going from neutral to forward/reverse and it's also why it's hard to put into forward/reverse from neutral. It does idle higher too it seems after it's hot as well. But if I lower the idle after heat up it does the same thing still. Would old motor oil possibly make this an issue? It hasn't been changed since my father in law had it in his barn a couple of years ago and I don't know if it could have broken down and maybe runs different after it's warmed up possibly.

 

Common problem on ebs type clutch system on creeping. Could be a worn fiber or brass washer in the one way allowing the belt to drift over touching the inner sheath of the drive clutch. This would keep constant pressure on the rear(driven) clutch and cause hard shifting and creeping.Item 2 and 22.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Also could be simply needing to shim the rear clutch out to align better with the front clutch and keep the belt centered on the one way bearing. This I've had to do may times. Just take the rear clutch off,remove the rear shim,match it up at any hardware store. May take a couple or so added shims to do this. Usually I had to change belts also because by the time I got a hold of them they were pretty glazed and burnt from the creeping. #1 on the shim. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Engine oil doesn't have anything to do with the clutch system,but if it's been awhile might be time for a good service also.

 

Ok so I did notice when i was putting the cover back on the front clutch(drive clutch if I'm correct) the belt seems to be running tight on the inner pulley(motor side) and that would cause the creeping? It is a lot worse too after it's been driven about 20-30 min. That could be bcnthe belts getting warm and expanding??

 

Belt is supposed to be tight on the front one way bearing. The front clutch and one way should be turning,but the belt for the most part should be stationary or barely turning. Look at the sides of the belt. If glazed or burnt,replace it. This alone might solve your problem. If it doesn't then you may have to address the clutches if it still creeps.

 

When you change the belt stick with OEM as people have problems with most aftermarket belts.

 

Ok Old Polaris Tech...I have finally found time to get my clutch off and have the two washers. Do you or anyone else possibly have the torque specs on the six bolts on the top of the clutch as well as the main clutch bolt? I did buy the clutch remover which made the job very easy! Thanks again for all the help. This forum is great as well as the helpful people! Thanks again