Well.... I just purchased an 04 predator 90 in non running condition. It appeared to be in good shape other than low compression (30 psi). When I got it home the first thing I checked was to see if it was firing and it wasn't. So I started tearing into it only to find a bunch of mud and dirt caked in behind the flywheel and stator. So hear is what I need, stator, carb, and piston kit. I found some aftermarket parts on ebay fairly cheap. I guess my questions are:

Anyone have any experience (good or bad) with these aftermarket parts off of ebay?

Is there a way to test the cdi box? The one on this machine has 2 screws on the back of it with a piece of mechanics wire connecting them together. That doesn't look right to me.

Can someone point me in the right direction on how to bleed the oil injection system since I removed the carb.



I'm sure I'll have more as I go to put this thing back together.

 

From what I read on another thread the two screws are the rev limiter?

 

If there is a wire between the two screws on the cdi just remove it. This is the limiter. Originally was just an aluminum tab that you removed to allow full power as the child was able to handle the atv better. No really good tests on the cdi. The factory manual shows stator and coil resistance specs and if those are eliminated as problem areas you replace the cdi with a "known good one" Plenty of complete top end kits on ebay that include a new cylinder.Heard good things about these,but some "generic" stators have cause some people problems. Bleeding shouldn't be needed if you just removed the oil line from the carb. But if you want to make sure the black plastic housing has to be removed to expose the pump. Bleed screw is on the side of the pump. #12.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
I'd trust this place on stators even though they are higher than some of the other generic ones on ebay. Ricky Stator

 

I bought parts off ebay right after I posted the first post in this thread. I got a piston kit that included cylinder and piston and so forth. I also bought a carb and stator, if the stator fails I'll go to rickystator and get good one.

 

There is one test on the cdi you can perform with a digital meter. Pull the lead from the coil going to the cdi,stick the red meter lead in this wire and the black lead to ground. Crank the engine over. Should show around 20 dcv on the cdi. That is if the stator is in good shape to send this to the cdi.

 

Thanks OPT I'll try it this weekend after I get some parts.

Another question, When I removed the stator there was a gasket like material between the stator and the case. behind that is the oil pump drive gear that was packed with grease. Do I need to do anything special there when I reassemble it?

 

No just leave the pump alone. You can bleed it as I mentioned earlier if you wish,plus premix the first tank of fuel 50-1 to aid in break in of the new top end. That's what we did at the shop on every new one just to be on the safe side. Will smoke a little extra on this first tank. Make sure before you go too far and check for any up and down play on the connecting rod and no crank bearing rough feeling or noise as you roll the rod around. Hope it's any easy repair job..