2007 Sportsman 500 Fuel Pressure Relief Valve
#1
2007 Polaris Sportsman Deluxe 500
Where is the fuel pressure valve located? I'm removing the fuel tank to see if I can just tie the float up (will that work ?) in the full position and stop the fuel gauge from flashing. It does not matter to me whether the gauge works or not as long as it is not flashing. I have followed the fuel line from the tank to the filter to the fuel rail and see nothing that that resembles a valve that I understand to be like the valve in a tire with a pin that can be depressed to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. What am I missing? Can I just take the fuel line off at the tank without removing the pressure?
Also I want to thank the experts here for pointing me towards the PDM unit for the problems I was having. It was the PDM and the replacement has solved that problem.
Would the fuel gauge flashing for months have had a effect on the PDM failing? Just curious.
Thanks to all for your responses in advance for the problem above.
Where is the fuel pressure valve located? I'm removing the fuel tank to see if I can just tie the float up (will that work ?) in the full position and stop the fuel gauge from flashing. It does not matter to me whether the gauge works or not as long as it is not flashing. I have followed the fuel line from the tank to the filter to the fuel rail and see nothing that that resembles a valve that I understand to be like the valve in a tire with a pin that can be depressed to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. What am I missing? Can I just take the fuel line off at the tank without removing the pressure?
Also I want to thank the experts here for pointing me towards the PDM unit for the problems I was having. It was the PDM and the replacement has solved that problem.
Would the fuel gauge flashing for months have had a effect on the PDM failing? Just curious.
Thanks to all for your responses in advance for the problem above.
#2
If I remember correctly relief valve is on the line from the filter to the fuel rail. Item 17.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse All others were on the end of the fuel rail under a black cap.
#3
Thanks for the response. If its there I could not find it. I will look again incase I need it in the future.
I just removed the fuel line actually no big deal. When I got the fuel pump out of the tank I removed the float and the wire bracket. I made a small plastic wedge to hold the sending unit in the full position. Will put the tank back in tomorrow and see if that was the problem with the flashing fuel gauge showing empty.
I just removed the fuel line actually no big deal. When I got the fuel pump out of the tank I removed the float and the wire bracket. I made a small plastic wedge to hold the sending unit in the full position. Will put the tank back in tomorrow and see if that was the problem with the flashing fuel gauge showing empty.
#4
You can bend the wire a little to keep from tank interference if that is the problem. Plus you can check resistance readings on the sender itself as you raise and lower the arm to see if it's working or not.Plus have had floats saturated in the past. I replaced entire sending units at the shop because of this,but floats are available now if yours is saturated. FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT FLOAT - Polaris ATV - X2, Sportsman 500, 700, 800 - DJSFLOAT
#5
I changed my mind about the plastic wedge worried it would fall out. So took the assembly back out this morning and tied the sending unit at the full position with a piece of monofilament line. Put the thing all back together and everything is good. The fuel gauge reads full no blinking or flashing. To check the fuel will just take the cap off like all the other quads around here...lol!
The float had to be saturated. I will order that float (thanks for the link) and install it the next time I have to tear the quad down that far.
I had to replace the vent line coming off the exterior oil tank. When checking it I noticed something white like crystal salt on the inside of the line solid for about 4 inches starting from the tank. What caught my eye was a small break in the line. Have no idea what caused that do you??
Thanks for your assistance much appreciated.
The float had to be saturated. I will order that float (thanks for the link) and install it the next time I have to tear the quad down that far.
I had to replace the vent line coming off the exterior oil tank. When checking it I noticed something white like crystal salt on the inside of the line solid for about 4 inches starting from the tank. What caught my eye was a small break in the line. Have no idea what caused that do you??
Thanks for your assistance much appreciated.
#6
This is residue from moisture, I've seen this a lot. The tank vent line is slit about 2 inches out for any condensation build up and to keep the vent lines from freezing up from moisture in freezing temperatures. I remember the early bulletin on this and the all the tank hoses I had to make a slit in on the Sportsmans and Magnums 500s.Bulletin mainly concerned the colder regions of the country,but had to do them down here also. Hope the float works!
#7
Dang...I put a new line on thinking that the stock one was broke. So the split was supposed to be there. The line was plugged solid between the split and the tank so what good was it doing?
Here it is below freezing 4 months a year. I'm pretty knowledgeable when it comes to things freezing and how to prevent that. Was the slit in place to let the steam escape coming off the hot oil when its freezing? I can understand that but the slit I don't get unless all the moist air coming off the tank escaped through it which it would not. I have the old hose could put it back in next fall when I do the new float.
A thought. What harm would it be to just put a short hose on the oil tank say 6 inches or so pointing downward not going to the air box so it the winter when the moisture condenses it just runs out before freezing. If they were worried about dumping the fumes into the air what was the slit doing there
Sounds like an engineering screw up to me and there is nothing to keep that stuff from falling back into the tank. Now I understand why there is a screen on the pressure line going into the motor. I've only checked that thing once. Definetly will open that up next oil change.
Again thanks for your input
Here it is below freezing 4 months a year. I'm pretty knowledgeable when it comes to things freezing and how to prevent that. Was the slit in place to let the steam escape coming off the hot oil when its freezing? I can understand that but the slit I don't get unless all the moist air coming off the tank escaped through it which it would not. I have the old hose could put it back in next fall when I do the new float.
A thought. What harm would it be to just put a short hose on the oil tank say 6 inches or so pointing downward not going to the air box so it the winter when the moisture condenses it just runs out before freezing. If they were worried about dumping the fumes into the air what was the slit doing there
Sounds like an engineering screw up to me and there is nothing to keep that stuff from falling back into the tank. Now I understand why there is a screen on the pressure line going into the motor. I've only checked that thing once. Definetly will open that up next oil change.
Again thanks for your input
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#8
Probably wouldn't hurt on rerouting the oil tank vent line,but oil mist would accumulate on the back of the oil tank or frame. Reason they run vent lines back to the air box is to recycle any oil mist/fumes back to the combustion chamber. Same thing as a pcv valve on an auto engine that directs crank case fumes,etc back to the air filter box.
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