OK, the bike in particular is an Arctic cat 300, which is a Suzuki engine which is clearly why i'm here on the Polaris section. It seems this area gets more traffic.

Anyway, its not about brands its about gaining knowledge of engine flushing.
simple 4 stroke air cooled machine.

Is there a product to recommend that i could use to flush engine, maybe clean the nooks and crannies without tearing it down? reason I ask is I put new oil and filter in, run it for a short ride 15-20 mins and comes out dirty still.

Yes i opened both drain plugs on this particular engine but its still dirty. I just think theres lots of sediment or something. and i do change it warm not cold. with 4stroke oil thats JOSA and "superior wet clutch" protection or whatever it says.

I thought there was Marvel oil for this or something but I want to make sure I dont destroy the engine.
Any info will help me and many others im sure.

Oh, and yes the filter is in properly

Thank you in advance

 

Think the mystery about Marvel Mystery oil is "lard" if what Wikipedia reports about it is accurate..
Just google "engine oil flush" and you'll see a lot of different products along with some warnings on not doing this on an older engine. May cause more harm than good.I've never used any of these products myself because good synthetic oil has detergents already in it. I'd rather burn a couple extra quarts of oil and a filter than trying to flush one. Same thing on auto transmissions. Have heard that flushing can cause problems on one that's never been flushed before. Just my two cents worth on this.

 

In the auto shop i work in we've used Gunk engine flush in car engines 1qt per engine. It works well and it does a ok job. I dont know what it would do to a atv engine, i wouldnt use a entire qt but maybe 1/5 or so. I agree with the OPT you could cause more harm then good. Get it really hot and change it a few times. Extra oil an filter is cheaper then a engine rebuild if a flush does damage engine.
Ive put a oz or two af mystery oil in my atv as i do all my power eguip in oil and gas. The stuff works.

 

Well thanks. Sounds like ill just spend a little more to buy full synthetic and change it more often than the other bikes for a few cycles.

Would the dirty oil be a sign of valves needing adjusting??
Bike runs great

 

Could be it's been ages since the oil was ever changed if it's that dirty or the wrong type of oil was used to begin with. Sediment or sludge is just a build up of burnt oil,oxidation from any moisture that enters the crank case,small metal wear fragments,a little dirt that may have entered the engine through the air filter,etc. As far as the valves,I'd be checking them as a standard procedure along with changing/cleaning the air filter. Usually running a good synthetic oil will help remove a little of this crap each time you change oil. The only way to remove all of it is to tear one down and wash everything up with kerosene which isn't sensible on a good running engine.

 

OPT - I have heard adding Seafosm to the oil, going for a ride, then changing helps clean out. Any truth?

The AC 300 is air cooled, correct? Change the oil while the atv is hot, helps drain everything out. I get my Polaris ready, pull the right running board, then go for a ride to get it good and hot.

 

Wouldn't hurt to use a little Seafoam or any product like it before an oil change as most of these type products contain "petroleum distillates" or in regular terms just a blend of naptha/kerosene among other things.WD40,PB blaster,etc basically have some of the same ingredients. Spray either one of these on a greasy wrench and see how easy it cleans up. Same thing that a lot of engine flushes claim to do on internal parts.But again regular use of good synthetic oils and their detergents help keep engines clean.Always best to change oil when warm before any deposits have a chance to settle. More contaminants come out with the dirty oil.