First of all, no bashers please. I'm sure this is a problem I caused. Anyway, I tore a CV boot on the front left. When I replaced it, I removed the front left axle to make it easier (my first mistake). When I went to put it all back together, I noticed the manual says that the SPINDLE NUT TIGHTNING was a dealer performed service. So I went to the dealer to get the torque specs. The service guy gave me a copy of the page that explained it out of the VOLUME III service manual. It says to tighten the nut to 160 - 170" ibs while turning the hub. Then back the nut off 1/2 turn. Next lift the rear tires off the ground and turn the tires over a few times so the front axle will turn inside the front hub. Finally re-torque the nut to 108 to 144" lbs. My wrench only goes to 10' lbs (120" lbs) so I used this setting for both hubs. The boot went on fine and all but now when accelerating hard, the fronts hubs lock in WITHOUT the AWD switch being on. I loosened the nuts to one notch (castle nut) (also, dealer service tech said that when it engages without the AWD switch being on, they are to tight??) back on both sides and changed back to Polaris Premium Hub Fluid instead of Type F ATF fluid but it still make no difference. Still, when accererating full throttle on a dirt road, the hubs lock in without the AWD switch being on. I have to back up every time to get them back to disengaged. Anyone had any previous experiance with these 4wd systems? Got any ideas? I really don't want to take it back to the dealer but I may have to, I've ran out of options so it's up to you.? Thanks a million y'all. (yep, from the south)

WillieB - '99 Scrambler 500 4x4

 

Which nut are you talking about that is too tight?? I just replaced my left front boot last week and used a plain socket wrench for all of the bolts and I tightened every bolt as tight as I could and everything works great on mine. I also pulled the axle apart with no problems. Maybe the problem is something else besides the nuts being too tight. Just wondering when you say it goes into awd when you kick it, is this after you take it out of awd and back up to release the front hubs? I know I back up every time with the override button pushed in so it spins the rear tires, so I know it's in 2 wheel drive. My scrambler most of time stays in awd even after I flip the awd switch until I back up, sometimes the hubs just do not release until you back up. Later, Steve

Steve

[This message has been edited by myscrambler (edited 09-14-1999).]

 

Willie, I thought the front wheels would coast past the hubs even though they were "engaged," remember?

Sorry, I'm weak! Couldn't resist. Forgive me if you can. Actually, I sincerely wish you the best of luck with your Polaris drivetrain problem.

Further, I respect your courage and determination performing your own maintenance and repair; you'll learn and share your experience with others, I know.

Best wishes,

Tree Farmer



[This message has been edited by Tree Farmer (edited 09-14-1999).]

 

mine did that. when the tires where spinning at high rpm. but the problem with mine was the springs in the hubs where stretch and the pinion arm was off a .001 of a inch

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99 500 scrambler with hotseat pipe and clutch dg bumper soon to have pistons and air box mod 93 yamaha t-wolve with a broken taillight soon to be fixed tailight is now fixed now need to fix headlight

 

Are these "auto-locking" hubs a special incentive to buy your Scrambler? :-)

Sorry I can't help, the only 4x4's problems I have seen with Polaris are electrical (which this could be, but might not). Good luck!

 

TREE FARMER Jim - I don't understand what this has got to do with my problem. I know your joking but it don't make sense. When the AWD is on and the 4wd is engaged, (locked in, 4wd in use, or whatever) the front tires are allowed to turn faster than the rear tires but not slower. Please, I don't want to get into that again! The problem is that it engages even when the AWD switch is off.

MYSCRAMBLER - It's the castle nut with the cottor pin behind the hub cover (with the three star screws) that holds it all together. I do agree with you that now it seems it could be another problem other than the nut tightness. Oh yeah, I know it's in 2wd when it engages without the switch on. I do the "spin rear tires in reverse to make sure it's in 2wd" thingy also. Kinda agrivating but a lot better than full time 4wd, sorry Honda 4x4 lovers, hehe.

WHISKY - That's what mine is doing exactly, at high RPM. Tell me more about the springs and pinion arm. What are they, where are they, how do they get out of adjustment, and how do you fix it? Do you think it done damage to yours when it engaged at high RPM. Mine done it kinda violently so I am a little concerned. Did you fix it yourself? Any special tools required? Any detailed help if you fixed it yourself would be super. Thks WillieB

QUAD_MAN Adam - You pulled a funny! haha! Thanks for the laugh, it makes things better...

[This message has been edited by Willie B (edited 09-14-1999).]

 

I have a Scrambler and have a friend with two more, all 400's and never had to reverse to get them out of 4 wheel drive. Has anybody else experienced this?
Scott.

 

Willie, I see. You still maintain your front wheels, when engaged with or locked to the front hubs, can rotate faster than the hubs, without the wheels disengaging from or unlocking from the hubs.

While visualizing a wheel rotaing faster than its hub while remaining mechanically locked to that hub remains difficult for me (even a one-way clutch disengages in one rotation direction), I accept your description for the purpose of discussion.

Tree Farmer

Tree Farmer

 

Scott, somtimes I have to slow down and turn the wheels side to side to make the front wheels disengage after running a lot in 4x4 and putting it in 2wd without stopping or killing the motor. I have got into the habit of stopping and backing up now, even though I usually don't need to. Sometimes I would be going in a straight line and not notice until a corner that it didn't dis-engage, and that can scare you.

It says in the owner's manual to back up & turn the wheels left/right if it happens, so it must be a common thing.

 

This doesn't answer your question but I just wonder why you had to take that hub apart at all just to replace the boot...
When I wrecked my xplorer my lower A-arm came loose which allowed my strut to swing out if you unloose the strut at the top you can easily pull the axle in and out of the hub.(once the CV boot is pulled loose).
Seems like it might be easier than dismantling the front hub like everyone seems to do...what does everyone think?

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Todd Snyder (kb9nvh, icq 381881