I've got a 2000 scrambler 500 that i've replaced the following part numbers. 3260104 (kit, cross and bearing), 3260101(yoke, splined), and 7661913 (pin, spring). last year about this time, i lost my 4 wheel drive when the splined yoke just shattered into pieces. well, as of about 2 months ago, i fixed what you see above. now i'm having an issue with 4 wheel drive engaging on that tire. it seems that it only engages at a high rpm, which i don't intentionally try to do just because of the force that is caused by it when it does kick in. so my question is, is there some kind of clutch or pulley issue in the transfer case? i've looked in the manual and i can't make heads or tails of it. any info is greatly appreciated!

*edit* is the issue maybe the Hillard clutch?

Thanks in Advance

Mike!

 

Sounds like the problem is in the hub. Could be an armature plate or hilliard problem,plus check that the coil sleeve isn't ground. down. Plus besides checking voltage to the coil you can do a resistance test. Should be around 25 ohms if the coil itself is ok. Item #13-14.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus here's a video that possibly can help. Plus could even be an intermittent ground problem. This video shows how to make a good common ground for the brown or brown/white awd ground wires.

 

So.....i've pulled the hub assembly apart, and i saw my worst case scenario. metal shavings. i got the Hillard clutch out and it's cracked in about 4 places and the tabs on the armature plate are bent/worn tabs.

*edit*

i forgot to mention, the castellated nut wasn't even tight. not even close. took out the cotter pin and spun the nut off with my fingers

also, when i buy the clutch, how imperative is it to purchase new roll pins? pn 3250010

 

You'd need a new garter spring along with the roll cage,but if the roller bearing aren't scored or damaged they can be reused. I've reused them before. More important than this is the condition of the coil sleeve on the strut casting. If it's rough,ground down because of the loose nut and distorted armature plate, a new sleeve would be needed along with a new coil as most times coils crack removing the sleeve. Just not worth skipping over these if any doubts as awd could could be erratic or not engage.Plus always check inside the hub for any damage also.

 

so, i've got everything back together, and now it seems that 4x4 is not releasing from the right tire. is this due to the magnet pole or from too much torque on the castellated nut and it's squeezing everything too much? i do not have a torque wrench. i see that it's 13.75ft lbs, and i tried to guesstimate, but i'm not sure if i went a little heavy or not.

 

Pre torque it to 15 foot pounds to pre load the bearings. Back off and final torque of 12 foot pounds. If this doesn't help you may have let the drive shaft slip when you installed the hub. I always held the back of the drive shaft and wiggled the hub in place to keep the plate and hilliard from moving. Can't guess on this as torque is critical. Plus if the coil sleeve was scuffed up,could be another reason. Has to be in good shape and not ground down and distance between the sleeve and coil should be flush or no more than .001.

 

so, i pulled everything and regreased it all. Now i'm only a 3x4. i havent tried to hold the drive shaft as i didn't think it moved during install, but it very well could have. the coil sleeve is smooth as butter, no scratches, dings, nics. and the distance between the sleeve and coil seem to be flush, I never truly checked with a straight edge and feeler gage though. everything was torqued to the book. i'm guessing first thing your going to say is to make sure the shaft doesn't slip and re-do everything, and also to check the sleeve and coil distance!

again, thanks for the help. saving me some serious cha ching!

 

Yes that is what I'd tell you to do. Also check that you have voltage to the gray wire and the brown wire isn't broken and firmly ground. Plus a weak coil can cause problems even if everything else is in good shape. You can check resistance on the gray and brown wires. Should be around 30- 35 ohms or so if I remember correctly.Service manual may tell you a little differently on the resistance specs allowed.