Didn't want to cut pouch open so traced harness to the plug I believe is the right one and have 12.78 volts.

 

ATV Con won't let me attach a photo but up under the dash board I checked the wire that has a red in and a red out of the spade plug and it metered at 12.78.

 

Just see if you have power to the red or red/black wire coming into the ignition switch itself at the circuit board.If you don't possible you have a faulty connection at the left control switch or the switch itself is bad. Slide the on off emergency switch back and forth along with checking the switches connections at the circuit board.The left control switch enables power to the ignition switch. Plus the control switch gets it's power past the 20 amp circuit breaker.Don't be afraid to cut the pouch open if in doubt. You can always silicone the breaker connections and tape the pouch up.

 

I am getting power to the key switch regardless of the position of the on/off switch. The reverse indicator light works, the neutral indicator light doesn't light but there is power there. I took the on/off switch apart and found no power in either the brown or black wire. Cut the pouch open and the breaker looks brand new. Is it safe to jumper it to see if it's bad? Plus that red/white wire I spliced back together in the shifter harness couldn't be the problem could it? Sorry for the long post.
Dave

 

What was I thinking I'm getting 12.75v on the ignition side of the breaker indicating that it is working.

 

Don't overlook the forest because all the trees are in the way.. If you have power past the breaker into the ignition switch(yes one wire will have power at all times,key on or off) but no power to the small solenoid power wire,then it could be an ignition switch short or a short in this solenoid wire or a short in the left control switch start button. The small red wire at the solenoid should power up when the ign switch is on and start button is pushed.

 

Thank you opt for making me see the forest through the trees. I took a step back and a breather and traced all the wires again. Lo and behold another broken wire, the red/white power wire to the left hand controls. Touched it together, pushed the starter button and the starter turned and the headlights worked. Now would some dielectric grease and electrical tape be sufficient to seal that breaker pouch I cut open or is there something better.
Dave

 

Got it running. WooHoo, thanks to opt. It's idling at about 3000 and from the carb drawing can't seem to find the idle screw, any thoughts?

 

Silicone around inside the breaker leads is good enough then tape the pouch. Should be a knurled adjuster below the carb to adjust the idle. First make sure you don't have the throttle cable adjusted too tight. Loosen the cable lock nut,turn the cable adjuster in or out until you have about 1/8" slack at the thumb lever then tighten the lock nut.Adjust the carb idle down to about 1050-1100 rpms.Glad you found the problem and have it running..

 

Is there a recommended break in period for a new cam and rockers?